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Welding skid

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6.7K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  scsmith42  
#1 ·
First big tig project was to build a skid for my 305g.
Box on the front is to carry the 45xp, air compressor needs a bit more plumbing.
Each set of wheels has 900 ft/lbs and it goes at a fast walking speed
Going to add a hydraulic winch eventually
 

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#4 ·
That's really quite cool, even though the lack of matching wheels annoys me :D

Is it all aluminium?
Where's the lifting eye for lifting on and off trailers?

Why didn't you use electric power from the Ranger itself?

A lot of work to put into the hydraulic system though, much respect.
 
#6 ·
Does it turn like a skid steer? 2 different diameter tires , one tire will spin faster than the other and will wear out the smaller dia. tire eventually. Where I have had to go for welding that would never make it there. Sometimes my 4WD truck with limited slip difs had a hard time making it. I never got stuck but had some close ones.
 
#8 ·
Tires are mismatched because the rims I need are on backorder, car rims that fit dirtbike tires are extremely rare and hard to get... it will have all 4 knobby dirt bike tires once the parts are here.
The unlimited free dirtbike tires with 50% tread from behind the bike shop is a nice bonus.

That being said the thing isnt going highway speed and drives just fine despite the mismatch.

Skidsteers take a ton of torque to turn, if you got your electric setup geared to provide that torque you would hardly move. Besides need a 10hp minimum gas motor to run the vmac screw compressor. The 2 stage hydraulic pump is the easiest and cheapest way to make it perform at an acceptable level.
Going in a straight line on flat it's about 300 psi drive pressure
Turning on hardpack about 800 psi
Turning on a hill in soft dirt can max it out at 2400 psi and stall the hydraulic motors

In some situations when you need full torque to both motors open center dosent cut it so I have a valve that closes the center, not the best practice to run the relief valve like that, but it's only for limited situations.

The 2 stage pump is really nice how when you start turning it drops from 15gpm to 4 gpm so it turns at a sensible speed rather than doubling from having all the flow go thru one motor instead of 2

I drive it right into the box of my truck, lifting eyes are pretty low on the priority list, but will be added once everything else is in place.
Once the winch is running I will have a few pulleys that can route the line to the balance point up top so it can lift itself up if I ever wanted to

Frame is 3Ă—4 3/16
Bearing housings are about 5/8 with 1/4 side plates
35mm 1018 axles with key ways cut just where needed
The post that holds the reels is 2x4x 1/4
The top aluminum is all 1/8
 
#11 ·
need a 10hp minimum gas motor to run the vmac screw compressor. The 2 stage hydraulic pump is the easiest and cheapest way to make it perform at an acceptable level.
Ah I didn't realise you've got a screw compressor on there :) I thought it was a dedicated engine hydro pump.
Fair play, all sounds like you've really thought about this... what sort of work will it be used for mostly?
 
#12 ·
Mostly repairing farmers stuff, other reason for building it is for advertising.
I dont have any formal training so its handy for people to get an idea of what sort of work they can expect from me.

One of the few things better in canada is theres a lot less crazy lawsuits and occupational licensing rackets, so it's not a legal problem to repair most things.

That being said I wont work on something that should be approved by an engineer or welded by a certified welder.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Built a 3/4 air reel for running the rivet buster and 1.5" impact. Also built 2 small air tanks to make the compressors job easier.
Also added an alternator and swapped a 24hp Kohler to run the vmac near what it's meant to.

Added a oil cooler for the compressor and built a pid controller for the 9x 4 amp brushless fans to keep everything at the right temperature.

I still need to build a proper lifting point and a cover for the control box.

Eventually I would like to get braking valves or counterbalance valves for the motors.
The diy anti cavitation valves are a rats nest and I would like to eliminate them.


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