With a small utility type trailer it's usually best to replace the complete axle. I assume a frozen bearing caused the problem?

 

I picked up the trailer from a salvage auction, and it looks to me like it was jackknifed. One wheel was bent way in, and the spindle looks like a banana. The idea of replacing a $30 spindle is very appealing, instead of a $200 axle. My thought was to try and see if I could remove the spindle first, then if that doesn't work, move on to a new axle. I am really trying to watch the budget on this one.

 

you might check the Dexter website and see if they recomend something. I think replacing the axle right,

Dan D.

 

Spindles for small straight axles typically have a 3-4 inch section that slips into the axle tube and then is welded at the end of the tube. A shallow cut can be made around the tube just behind the weld and the spindle can be pulled out.

 

Thanks, that makes sense. Once I get the axle off the trailer, I will give it a shot.

 

I've also seen a lot of them have a 3/4" hole bored into the axle tube sidewalls which when the spindle is inserted, the holes being welded shut binding the spindle stub end to the axle tube. A one inch hole saw will usually remove this welding after boring through the center with a 1/4" twist drill, and a zip wheel will remove the weld at the end of the axle tube allowing the spindle stub to be removed.

It's the liability exposure that precluded doing it myself and I'd hate to wind up in the "trailer fail" thread.....

 

I knew many had the holes in a little from the end, but I didn't realize it was a 3/4" typically. I will see what I find, right now the u-bolts are soaking in lube, my 1000 ft/lb impact wouldn't budge them yesterday.

 

That's what I've seen often when working on trailers. However, most of the work I performed was on medium duty, and heavy trailers.

I torch the bolts off as they really are something you don't need to reuse.

 

I do always figure new u-bolts on anything like this, so I could just take a grinder to them if needed too. It was our anniversary yesterday, so I didn't get a whole lot of time to work on it. I just grabbed my impact and thought maybe I could buzz them off. I sprayed lube on them a few times over the course of the day, so will try the impact this morning and if that doesn't work, just cut them off.

 

I'm surprised you have that much damage to a solid spindle without damaging the lighter tubing it was installed into. Make sure you inspect the rest of the unit very closely for cracks and bends. How I would repair it would depend on the intended use. If it's just for light hauling around the yard, I wouldn't think twice about welding in another spindle, but if there's a chance it could be going down highways at 70mph with a load, you should really be considering a new axle. When removing old spindles etc. I like to use a small 4" hummer disc cut off wheel in my die grinder to cut the weld. It's slower than the cutting torch, but leaves a nice neat cut to weld too, and doesn't put a lot of heat into the surrounding metal. If those Ubolts have been subject to that much torque and abuse over time, I would also replace them.

 

Ya, it is a snowball thing though. I do need one spindle and one hub. My current hubs are 5x5. I have yet to find an exact match for a spindle only replacement, and if I go the new axle route, I believe I will need two new hubs too for the new axle. So new axle, 2 new hubs in 5x5 (hard to find) is probably going to be $150, for $200 I can get a kit with everything including springs. Now, if I go that route, it is still tough to find 5x5 hubs included, and I could go with 5x4.5 hubs, since those are much easier to find wheels for. But then of course I would need new wheels and tires in the 5x4.5. So this very quickly could get to be $400 to do it "right"

Anyway, since I am trying to not get carried away (yet) I am going to search for a new spindle and matching hub in the 5x5 size. I got the axle off, and the old spindle off without much problem. Now just need to scour the net for replacements. I do not know what brand of trailer it is either, I can not find a tag anywhere. So going directly to them is out.

 

I hear you - repairs can get out of hand sometimes.

 

Once you start repairing axles with non standard hubs, bearings etc it quickly becomes cheaper to buy new. An entire new assembly with hubs won't be much more than $125. You don't have to stick to that hub size, a hub, wheel and tire may be cheaper. Lookup dexter, rockwell international, century wheel. I'm not sure whats in your area. Even tires are cheaper already mounted onto rims. I don't know how I would repair what was pictured and guarantee alignment. Future premature tire wear may cost more than a new axle in the long run if it is out of alignment.

 

It doesn't look that bad, a little heat ,a big hammer and it'll be as good as new!

 

it is hollow, and there is no stub. I found a spindle from etrailer and ordered it today. the new spindle has a stub that slides in to the tube a ways 3"?, so it should theoretically be easy to align and weld it up. If my only choice was a spindle like the factory one (no stub in axle) I wouldn't have even considered it. I would have gone new. But with the stub it should be ok and I will probably add a few plug welds in too.



I brought this trailer home on a 4 place snowmobile trailer and was trying to figure out how to get it off that trailer and back to the shop without a functional wheel. So this thought came to mind briefly. I ended up adding a few thick washers to hold the hub on closer to strait, and towed it the block home from a vacant lot that had a dirt pile that worked great as a loading dock. For how beefy the spindle is, I am very surprised it didn't snap the weld before bending this far.

 

Is that remaining tube hollow, or is there a stub still in it? If it's hollow what is the exact ID? If there is a stub in it, can it be driven in further?

 

Your repair should work. The simplest way to assure alignment is clamping the spindles with angle iron. You could also mount the hub, wheel&tire and line it up well before tacking it. My guess is you would want " toe in " measurement to be from zero to 1/8". I would just match the up and down angle using a level on a level floor.

 

Although it may not look it, there is a bend somewhere else. Many axles don't have toe in, but do have camber. It'll be fine until you weld it in and start going down the road and you put new tires on every 150 miles. I can get a new 3500 lb axle on springs for $82 locally (4x5 or 5x5). You'll only pay that if you go to a box store. 4x5 is standard with most mfg'rs, with 5x5 harder to find but for those people that like the brand that 5x5's fit. A trip to the junk yard will get you new wheels if a 4x5 is a problem and the only thing you can find.

 

i agree a new axle would be cheaper and a much better repair. Just seemed like he didn't want that option.

 

When I said "you'll only pay that"... I meant 200.00 dollars. If you shop around there's bound to be a trailer supplier or manufacturer in MN that may not be too far away.

 

I did find this axle, I think it will work with my hubs, if the spindle option doesn't work out, I might give this one a try.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200596732_200596732

I am just wondering about the spring mounting. My axle mounts above the springs, they said this axle mounts below, so I am not sure. I have a few local trailer places I can try too.

 

You cut the spring perch from the axle and either remount it where needed, or replace it with new. They are not an expensive part.

 

Be careful buying bare axles if you want them to match your hubs. There a gazillion different bearing combinations out there that may or may not be machined at the right places for length within in the hub despite being the right inside and outside diameters. Pay attention to where it's machined as well as the diameters. There is also different combinations for low speed ag applications as opposed to the high speed stuff. I still think a complete axle with new hubs/bearings is going to be the best solution in the long term if this is for highway use. Even the $400 option with new wheels and tires isn't all that bad considering the use you'll get out of the tires as opposed to what you have already.

 

I realize that would be the best way. I would love to get a new axle, spindles, nice aluminum wheels, tires, etc. but it isn't in the cards right now. If my "cheap fix" doesn't work, and I shred tires or something, i will have to look at different options. Honestly, if the fees of this auction didn't blind side me, I would probably consider converting to a tandem axle with everything new, but the fees were almost double the purchase price, so right now i need to keep it simple.

 

Get it all sorted out yet?

 

Pretty much, It is in the shop upside down right now and I am sandblasting/painting, new wiring, etc. to it, but the axle is all together and everything should work. I am thinking some day of converting it to a tandem axle since it is a heavier duty, 6x12, but only a single axle right now. I think it was a landscaping trailer in it's previous life. I added a couple cross members, gussets in the corners, and re-did the entire tongue. Slightly beefier, slightly longer, new coupler, etc.

It should be a nice trailer when I am done. Still pissed about how much the fees were from the auction were

Brew

 

Live and learn. At least you've got a trailer...

 

Yup, I have been looking for a few years for a good used one this size. If I had to guess, this was a $1500 trailer new, I will probably have $800-1,000 when I am done, so not a terrible deal, just not as good as I hoped.

 

LOL!
It always comes out that way!
No matter how good the Deal seems at the time, it always cost more in the end!