[Sberry]

What would a 7014 be good for then,,,, just practice?

 

[Sberry]

As a CWI I would love to find ANY 6011 or 7024 welds on a beam/column or bridge beam so I could make the welder of such item gouge all the welds off

Somehow I bet that is true.

 

[Sberry]

They are little bitty tabs welded to sheet metal that gets beat, its not like this is a mystery and they certainly didnt lohy from the factory. They would have ripped no matter what they were welded with.

 

[Sberry]

They make a lot of flavors of 7018.

 

[Sberry]

We use wire feed.

 

[Sberry]

Louie,,, I have heard all that explained but its been a while. Seems we went in to this several pages on Hobart back in the day when comparing some Hob and Linc rods the best I recall. Seems I been on buildings they spec some special wire for different parts, all common steel.
As for the decks, I really dont see cracked welds so much,,, more in the sheet next to the weld. Reweld often works, really spreads the area, simply makes it larger around. Worked X amount of years at 100%, machine now 2/3 worn out, make it 125%,, or 150% and outlast the machine. I dont think its so much critical rock science, just the repair is a little bigger and maybe better than the original and usually doesnt have to last as long or same level of service.

 

[Sberry]

Others are over my head but another they use a lot is modulus of elasticity I believe, this is where lo hy shines some over 13 and 14. Its not the same as ductility. Got a lot to do with load cycling in highly engineered joints mostly.

 

[Sberry]

I believe elongation and elasticity are slightly different measurements too.

 

[Sberry]

All the improved properties are a good thing if it matters. Not every weld is or should be so highly engineered that most of this makes any real difference. Even something like trailer design,,, good ones have most of the weight simply bearing on a beam on top of the axles, lots, most of the weld simply to keep it all from sliding apart.

 

[Sberry]

I am not sure where they are along the curve but I think it might be they want it to stretch and return so to speak.

 

[Sberry]

Contrary to popular belief jt tolerates contami ates rather well and in some respect better than 10 or 11. It has so much more flux to carry it all away, it cools slower,, flows out smooth, boils out the crud. Only reason the other is used that way it is slightly easier to turn it up and dig some but light flux and fast freeze makes junk mix in.

 

[Sberry]

I say forget all that crap, you will end up with part boxes of old rod and might5 not learn much. Get the 1/8 10 or 11, 3.32 and 1/8 7018 and learn them and forget about all the rest of that stuff especially at this point. When AC was p-opular we used that crap cause we had to, I still have a small box of 13 rotting away, finally managed to use of give away most of it and ran across the last of the AC 18 a while back which we used by the box at one point. The whole reason a guy gets a DC is for out of position and so he can steal rods from work.
I am sure some professionals use 13, they can, they know etc but out in the world only place I see them was part timers, quasi welders, sign companies, farms and maint type work usually with some old fart really dont know one from another and were truly amazed that weld could be done uphill.

 

[Sberry]

We have seen some pretty good 13 welder, every once in a while I am surprised.

 

[Sberry]

I can be a good welder when I wanna/have to be. I dont really care all that much, am less pretentious about it than I used to be. It looks good enough no one looks if that makes any sense. I just restored a machine where we spent 3 days or so simply dressing up old welding and splatter. The welding looked ruff to start out with but sealed quite well. Looked like mostly 7014 and maybe AC, not sure and some wire. Being a good grinder saved a lot of welding would have ben tempted to cover up.
Contrary,,,, not every root bead needs to be 6010. Some rods dont seem to like to be welded over real well for some reason. 18 runs over 10 better than 13 or 14. 18 runs well over 18,,, ha.
Another one is 18 down on light sheet. Can even get it bridged together and get a puddle to hang up in there for a while and if its closer can really be smooth. Can bridge gaps going down that would be hard flat.

 

[Sberry]

There is nothing wrong with other rods but,,, in the end nothing the others can do that these cant. A hobby guy can get so much he cant circulate any. My neighbor just resigned himself to that and ditched a box of 6011 at my place. I have 5# of 3/32 in 11 and 13 going south simply cause I dont use them. I dont use 13 and I been running 1/8 so long that I am used to it. One of the benefits is its low amps. 3 3/2 7018 runs nice over 11 and can go to 1/8 when u got a need for speed. I am a 3 rod guy if I can help it, just less crap to get mixed up in the end.
If I was gonna need to get fussier and needed a new machine might get the 180 Louie and the gang gush over that runs 10 instead of 11. I thought I might have been doing myself a favor on DC with 11 but stumbled a couple 10 the other day and had a chance to use them next to each other and felt like I was renewed and basking in the glow of the heavenly arc, so much better wet and crisp. I think all my rod is Hobart, was looking for some lincs to compare. The Hob restarts terrible too, tends to snuff right out and really not simply lighting right up.

 

[Sberry]

There is one simple reason for the 13 and the 14 and that is the AC buzzer.

 

[Sberry]

The Veg is gonna find the 3/32 11 a bit touchy. the smaller the rod the less forgiving arc length error is. 25% of a little bitty rod is a lot. 18 is a little easier, so close anyway.

 

[Sberry]

Try 13 and 14 DC it dream too.
I prefer DC for all welding

Dave

I will agree. The reason it was invented and persisted though is the AC buzzer. I am not saying it isnt good. We went thru that on a big 13 vs 18 thread. I know guys almost gifted with it and would have no problem paying the bill. Saw a couple herethat said they were self learned and used 13 for all of it for 40 yrs and I was pleasantly surprised at the quality, guy can keep doing it the way he is. Out here I talked to a guy that knows all about it, he show me some overhead on his pickup hitch, his opinion that 13 is the best thing ever invented is fine in his case because it was a real respectable job, was well welded up and around in a pass. Nice job.

 

[Sberry]

I used those when I was a kid and carried a handful of each in the car. Had friends that had buzzers. You could get a used one then for 100-200 bucks, still that in todays dollars, they have not appreciated.
All of the stuff on here is really good but a real treasure is Louie, Scott V that are students of real value in todays world. I like Louie really picks out a model with the Rouge or what it is but even lets the pro use 6010 and has some top end if you need it once in a while. I think the AC/DC the Veg got for 250 is great but if I had to park them side by side with 700 in my hand would have to pick the new one. It dont make the old one bad, I use an old one but some new features make a guy look like a star.

 

[Sberry]

better welding equipment was never cheap but it was good, it was reliable, last a long time with long warranty. I didnt think in 82 it would get so much more useful, thrifty input, maybe not as reliable but 1.2 the cost for DC dvi as a AC buzzer was,,,, half the cost in todays dollars. The Hobart displaced its 50A in stick with a new model a whole step above the old in power out. Can run 5/32 with the new longer than 1/8 in the old model. Could run 1/8 unlimited so far as manual operation is concerned.