Can't help...have only used 6010 and not enough of it to like it yet...but Good Luck !!

 

6011 is a fast freezing rod so it shouldn't be much of a challenge after some practice, it just takes time. the advice that i have to give you is to make sure that your work piece is not unevenly grounded. make sure the whole surface of the plate, or backing strip is in contact with a grounded surface( not just half or a third). this will prefent arc blow which makes it very, very hard to lary a bead. oh and if your machine can do ac i recomend that. unless your test specifies otherwise

 

Well, I've been running 7018 with a backer forever but recently decided to try open root. The 3G was a cake walk but that 4G about drove me nuts. Trying to get a smooth convex bead on the backside is tough with that ******* 6010 rod !! I've got about 20-30 pounds of that crap left but need to pick up more material. Hopefully by the time I get through this 50 lbs can I'll agree with you statement...lol.

 

7018 is the worst i remember the frustration involded with my structural v up
test, the 1" thick plate, D.1???. i love stck welding but could not do it as a career.

wtf?? im on fire... oh noes!!!!!

iv'e said that alot while practicing for that cert

 

just keep a tight arc and if you are uncomfortable, you are probably in the right position. are you doing a z-weave or stringers??

 

IF you are forced to use 6011 (i never heard of a 6011 test ) i assume (there's THAT word again !) you are using A C . No other reason to use 6011 . it's garbage. If you're doing it overhead , you'd better have a good pair of leather sleeves or better yet, a leather welding coat. Only rod that splatters more than 6011 is 6010 (5p, 5p plus ) Also , have a piece of leather to protect your neck from the dingle berries. (taped to bottom of your hood. ) If you're using A C welding current, you should NOT have any arc-blow .

 

I can't answer your question, but with 7018 I use a slight push 5 to 10* to get a flatter bead.

David

 

Overhead rod is just as easy as flat, once you get the hang if it. Run hot as you would flat and keep shoving the rod in. Keep your rod angle straight almost 90 degrees but pointing back at your puddle hold your sides till you see it fill than off to other side. Learn to read your puddle it will tell you everthing you need know(amperage, travel speed, rod angle.) Hope this helps.

 

I hate to disagree here but. 6011's are not garage I have used them for years along with 6010. Way back we welded all our air and coolant lines with them and never never a leak or break. They weld with a soft arc that is very controlable with ok penitration. If im need a root pass just to clean something up and pre heat a little I will use a 1/8" 6011 and then run over it with a 7018. If it is critical I will use 6010 but they are a little harder to use and splater like crazy. Also 6011'a rock for galvanized I can get a nice weld in a single pass. No offense, but you should give them a try.

 

never done 6011 4g but have done 7018 with a backing as well. I just like to get comfortable and beable to see thats all i can say.

 

are you rememebering to pull a long arc instead of dragging the rod on the steel?

 

well for me to get my plate ticket I have to use 6011 rods for root hot pass fill passes and cap. I use weaving because I cant run stringers in overhead worth a ****, I just have a problem with keeping my arc close to the work and compensating for the burning rod. And the whole work table is grounded (welding booth) and we are running on DC reverse polarity.

 

just drag the rod straight stringer.

 

That is a deep penetration rod. But overhead does not really mean you let it get over head. The welding arc should be out in front of you so the sparks fall down on the ground in front of you, not on you. so you want the weld coupon in front of you at eye level or just above eye level. It is really all about depth perception. Kind of get in position - do a dry run first NO CURRENT, then turn on the machine relax take a deep breath exhale and start welding.

Use a slight whipping or weave technique in the groove.

 

I like what WELDER 155 said. Make sure you can see the groove. and get off to the side just a little, NOT looking right down the groove. Make sure your welding glass is clean inside and outside. That will make a big difference too.

 

I hate to disagree here but. 6011's are not garage I have used them for years along with 6010. Way back we welded all our air and coolant lines with them and never never a leak or break. They weld with a soft arc that is very controlable with ok penitration. If im need a root pass just to clean something up and pre heat a little I will use a 1/8" 6011 and then run over it with a 7018. If it is critical I will use 6010 but they are a little harder to use and splater like crazy. Also 6011'a rock for galvanized I can get a nice weld in a single pass. No offense, but you should give them a try.

Yes I agree. They are often refered to as the "grandfather rod of ship building" Deep penetration. Not much build up, but very good on dirty metal for the root pass.

 

I have read that the proper technique for 6011 on galvinized, is ahead 1/2 inch then back 3/8 and repeated so on. so it looks like fish scales.

 

The method I use for galvanized is tack it were you want it and the I will run an arc from the rod along the weldlond and fast. Then I start at the begining and then weld. The extra time is not long at all. I have seen the "fish scale" and I personally dont care for it. A 6010 will out penetrate a 6011 by 30 to 40% so I avoid using a 6011 were a deep weld is needed. Another nice thing about 6011's is the wont burn you up. I caught me shirt on fire again by those darn 6010's but they do have there place. 3/16" 6010 at 225 amps it like welding with a roman candle but you can burn as deep as you want.

 

You can't knock 6011 unless you dont have much experience with it, or you just used it wrong or both. Burn through rust, grease, dirt and many other things with ease. if you are using 6010 and end up with pinholes, switch to 6011 and voila, no more pin holes.

Sounds like your weld test requires you to get full pen. Get a keyhole going and if it doesn't fill in behind you, adjust your machine, gap, or speed of travel.

alot of people think 6011 is no good because they claim it is not as strong. Well they are partially right, but its not much weaker. I just goes on thinner than 7018 normally.

 

I actually got to burn a few pounds of 6011 on AC polarity today. This old flat bed trailer has been in our shop for a few days and I was asked to go over half a dozen big, ugly cracks. Lots of chipping paint layers, rust, old welded patches, a real piece of modern art! The mig welder was useless on this job, so I drug out my Century 230AC buzz box and got to burnin'. It ain't purdy, but what it lacks in appearance, it makes up for in cleaning action!

NissanGuy, how's your testing coming along? I think you will have to use a slight manipulation even on a stringer bead. I would have to make a few more bricks with this rod to get a feel for it!
My 7018 bricks...

 

Next wednesday is my plate test for my first plate ticket, I got all the welding positions down except for overhead...its a bitch. Im using 6011 rods and its two 1.4 inch plates beveled on both sides witha a 1/8th landing. Any tips or links ne one could point me toward? thanks

Make sure your gloves are over your skins. And keep both hands facing up in the air. If you have cowboy boots you can save laces.

If a ball melts through, don't scream like a women. Or jump around like a fool. Ha-ha. Not that I would know anything about this. Ha-ha.


Sincerely,


William McCormick

 

You are probably already done your overhead by now but for future tests in overhead using stick, try slinging your lead around you work and put your arm through it to act as a brace. Make the loop as big or small as needed. It will keep your arm real steady for overhead.

 

What westcoast welder said, that's a great idea!!

Here's a view of some of todays trailer work in 6011. Nice clean trailer, huh? Dig that old bolted patch over a wide open crack, that'll work!

The beauty of the rod is that I did zero clean up before welding! Unlike mig, which must be bright and shiny or forget it!
This patch took WAY too much time to fit up for the money being spent on the repairs. I used mig yesterday and was fed up after this one patch.