I don't have any to offer but what parts in particular are you in need of?

 

I just purchased 3 of these machines and one is good for parts, what are you looking for? I may have it

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From the parts Diagram the part that I need is called the (Bearing Cage). It's a cast web looking piece. If it'll help, I can take some pictures of the piece and post them up.
My machine stopped working a few years back, so I put it off and just set the machine aside. It started fine, but I believe the brushes were probably stuck after sitting for so long. Again, the last time I started it, it ran fine, it's just that it won't burn rod. Anyhow, at the time, I called and talked to local electrical shop and the tech said that sometimes if you rap the shaft with a single jack it'll jar the brushes and they'll begin to weld again. So decided to try this, and as luck would have it about the 3rd rap as I was coming down to strike the center shaft section, my hammer was deflected off of something behind me and I hit the cage and broke it.:realmad: I'm sure it can be tig welded, but I'd really like to replace it instead.
Let me know if you have this part and would be willing to part with it.
Thank you sir.

 

Djac225..This is not my machine, I found this picture just now on the internet. I circled the area where this bearing cage is located. If you remove the cover that is circled, the bearing cage is underneath it. You probably already new this, but the more info the better..

 

You can see here from these pictures the part that I broke, that I'm trying to replace.

 

A bummer for sure.

I understand completely on the personal value.

 

I have the part he needs, whenever I get time I'm gonna take it off and send it to him, these are great little machines! They run a fine bead, Only thing wrong with mine is the idler, I'm still fiddling with it

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Hey guys. I had a chance to take a closer look at what all is involved to replace the broken piece. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks as though I need to separate the engine and the generator. I'm seeing 4 bolts around the squirrel cage that If I remove these bolts, I should be able to separate the engine from the generator. My plan is to separate them like 3-4" or so. Should be all I need. This is turn should give me room to slide the center section back away from the bearing cage to slide out and remove the piece that's broken. Does this sound about right? And do I need to remove the pipe plug on the end? I don't think I do, It's just hard to tell.
On Edit: Also, is there anything else I need to do to make this job easier for reassembly. I was figuring on putting a small piece of wire on the brushes to hold them back in place, this way when I slide the generator shaft back in place, I just cut the wire, slide it out and the brushes drop in to place. Any ideas or suggestions here would be appreciated. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I've never worked on this machine before. Thank you guys.

 

I've had mine a few weeks now so I haven't had a chance to tear it down that far, so I wuldnt be able to give you any advice on this part, I'm interested in how to take it apart as well, I'm sure I can do it, I just dont wanna mess anything up on my good machines

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Yup, I hear yah DJ. I think I'm gonna wait until this weekend and go ahead and tear it down. I watched a few videos on youtube by a guy that goes by 5Tractorguy. He has a part 1 & part 2 to the tear down, but it does look like pretty straight forward. Just a bit of booger to separate. I already spayed down the 2 cases at the point of separation with PB blaster. Hopefully this will help. I noticed today, that I have a chewed up wire that I'm not sure where it goes. It's the red wire of the point's box. It goes back into the housing and is chewed off there. Usually one is able to trace a wire down, and find the other end where it was chewed off, but I just don't see it. I'm inclined to think it attaches right there with others. I'm not sure what this piece is called where the wires are landed in the engine compartment.
Also, I had a conversation with my Dad yesterday about this machine, and today he gave me all the original paperwork from the day he bought it! LOL....$1,596.oo in 1974...

Lincwelder 225 tear down video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkLaez06vc8&t=1s

 

Whenever i get home today I'll take pictures to show you where the wire connects. If you ever get a chance could you make some copies of the original manual? I'm sure it's slightly different than the one lincoln has on their site the manual I downloaded from them doesn't have much info on my '69

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The wire from the points box goes to the starter switch at the front of the machine, I circled the connection, it's the white wire. I can see why you had a hard time tracing it, I also got rhe R57 idler working on my machine. I checked the gap and it was .20, but still wouldn't idle up, so I manually idled up the machine by hand, while trying to strike an arc, and it worked! I'm not sure what this accomplished but I'm happy it works. I only idled it up by hand the first initial time, afterwards I didn't touch it and it still idled up in its own and welded great! I'm going to start restoring it whenever I get time

 

Awesome, thank you DJ...

 

I have 1 and it's the ugliest thing I probably own but it is sweet...
I bought new batteries for it but never installed them. It fires up on the first pull with a rope and I've never really need to use it bit I do like to use it from time to time..it makes a sweet arc

 

I think they look awesome!! Very unique design, everything seems to be made very well on these machines. They are also very easy to work on IMO.

I have another question, I did a compression test (I've never done a compression test before and I'm not familiar it) and I got around 90-100lbs on both cylinders after pull starting it several times and testing a few times on both cylinders. Is this ok? I read in the manual and it said 100-120. Again. I'm not familiar with compression tests so I'm not sure if 90 is ok or not.

 

I like the way they look....but looks like mine was pulled from acid lake, rolled down chit hill on fire then crashed into an ugly tree.
It's a beast tho

 

I have two of these machines, I got them in a trade, I have no interest in rebuilding them, I have a pretty complete Onan and two welder/gensets pretty much complete. I need the end cover (brush cover? see post #5) for a Weldanpower which I will rebuild. I don't want to high jack this post, my stuff is posted elsewhere n this forum. Good luck!

 

Hey DJ, I'm sorry I didn't respond earlier. I didn't get receive an update notification to this thread in my email. Not sure what's happening there. I'll get it done right away for yah. My apologize again pal.

 

Here are the first pages of the 2 manuals that I have. I can only post 5 at a time, so the manuals will be in order, but with in different post's..

 

2nd post of Manuals.

 

3rd post of Manuals.

 

This is the final page of the 2 manuals that I have..

 

I can't thank you enough for the detailed photos!! They are much better than the ones I have

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My pleasure. I'm not sure why I don't get notified of updates to this thread in my email. I tried to find something in my setting's, but can't seem to locate anything. Maybe a moderator can help me out..
On Edit: think I found where I needed to make some changes for email notifications in my settings. Hopefully I got it figured out.

 

Here is another 2 page document I have on these machines.

 

If that motor has been sitting around a lot for a few years, I wouldn't get too excited about that low compression reading just yet. If it was mine (and I do live in the country with no near-by neighbors), I'd run some engine oil down the carb air intake until it stalled. Let it sit a while and then fire it up (yes you will fog the yard for mosquitos so do it outside) and run it up to full operating temp for an hour or 2. You could be suffering from stuck rings, minor surface rust etc. from sitting around too much. Other people will tell you to use ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil etc, but I've had good luck with plain old 10-30. Used to do it periodically on an old L head Plymouth and it made a noticeable difference.

 

It's been sitting but I have run it over 12+ hrs so far with no issues and hardly any oil use. I changed the oil with 30w and some marvel mystery oil. I took the heads off and everything is good there, I was just curious whether or not 95-100 is good compression. Everything runs and weeds flawlessly like it should and she cranks on the first pull everytime

Edit: I did run marvel mystery oil straight into the carb while the engine was at full speed, I probably used 12 oz. Maybe a little more. I added a big capsule at a time and the engine almost died but she kept running and I kept adding oil. Then I let it run at idle for a little over an hour.

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DJ, do you have a magneto coil for one of the lincwelder 225's?

 

I know this is an old thread but if anyone is looking for a parts machine I have one I am wanting to sale.

 

You might attract more attention with a separate post in the buy/sell section... pay attention to the price and location requirements.

djac hasn't been here since 2017.