Lincoln NR-203MP Experiences?

gtermini · Aug 27, 2018

Let me preface this by stating this is just hobby grade work by a hobby grade guy. Nothing code or critical.

Machine:
Miller XMT 304
Lincoln LN25 PRO suitcase w/ serrated 1/16 drive rolls
Abicor Binzel flux core gun w/ single bend long gooseneck & Tweco 16s contact tip
50' 2/0 lead on each side

I picked up a couple spools of .068" NR-203MP innershield on the recommendation that'd I'd like the arc characteristics. It burns similar to 7018 rod with a pretty mellow arc. I have run a bunch of .045 NR-211/212 and like it a lot. I found I could not get the 203 to burn within Lincoln's published parameters. Started on at 19.5V/80ipm and it wanted to just stab the wire into the plate faster than the arc would burn it. The closest to a sweet spot I got was 23.0V/95ip. It didn't seem to like the full 1.0" stickout called for either. I found closer to 3/4" working for me. Always moving with a decent drag angle.

View attachment innershieldnr-203mp_top.jpg

The only pic I took was a gouged out crack I filled it. This is wire wheeled only. Those little marks in the surface were under the slag, not from a chipping hammer. No more than surface deep when ground off.

My issues and where I'd like to hear from others is relating to the puddle, spatter, and wire feeding.

It seemed like the puddle would just become hard to distinguish from the slag and arc at times. Like you're moving along with a clear puddle, then it becomes this amalgamous area of slag and weld pool. I can usually work out of it without an inclusion by holding less stickout for a second. Does this sound normal?

This stuff seems to make 10X the spatter of 211/212. It mostly brushes right off with a wire wheel. Again, does this sound normal for this flavor wire, or is it a parameter issue?

What size contact tips do you find work best for .068" wire? I bough 50 Tweco 16S-1/16 figuring they'd work. They won't pass the wire. The wire measures .074". I drilled out some tips .076" to the get running. I guess I'll get some 5/64 ones.

It's tough wire to feed. I had the tension cranked down and felt wire chatter in the liner if there was any kind of bend in the whip, which made the arc go funky. I could really feel the wire rubbing in the neck liner too, and it shoots out with a healthy bend from the tip. Do you think a double bent neck would straighten the wire on its way out?

Overall, I was quite pleased with the welds. It's not the fastest stuff, and the chart shows the low efficiency. I'd compare it to a 5/32 rod at the range I was running. It makes a pretty rippled bead as well. On horizontal fillets, the puddle wanted to bulge out on the bottom leg by the time the top edge filled out and tied in. I was surprised to find very little info out there about people running it. Are there any opinions about it by guys that have run it here?

Thanks.

njs552 · Aug 28, 2018

Just a note first on the contact tips, if you have the tension really cranked down on the drive rolls you will crush the wire into an oval, and it wont feed through the contact tip. Might even cause feeding issues in the liner depending on what size that is.

I don't think I've run that wire, but I have run a similar high nickle wire in 3/32 with a 600 amp lincoln machine.

First question is why the 203 wire? This type of high nickle wire is not typically used for general fabrication. For shop work, dualshield would be a better option. For field work 211 or better yet 232 is my choice.

As far as settings, somewhere around 21v should be pretty good. Dial in the wirespeed at that voltage and see what happens. If you get "chicken tracks" on the surface of the weld your running things right on the edge of being too hot, and you could turn down the voltage a bit.

What is your inductance set at on the miller 304? There should be a "wire type" setting in there somewhere for flux core. Might make a difference.

Generally welding in the flat/horizontal position you'll need to keep a little closer arc length than recommended and a pretty hard drag angle to keep the slag back.

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gtermini · Aug 28, 2018

Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure anybody would admit to running flux core. I personally love the stuff

Just a note first on the contact tips, if you have the tension really cranked down on the drive rolls you will crush the wire into an oval, and it wont feed through the contact tip. Might even cause feeding issues in the liner depending on what size that is.

It wouldn't fit through a new tip right off the roll, and of course Lincoln doen't make metric contact tips... I will just move to 5/64, no big deal. I had issues with the wire stalling until I cranked it to 5 on the Lincoln screw clamp. I might pull the liner and see about a larger one.

First question is why the 203 wire? This type of high nickle wire is not typically used for general fabrication. For shop work, dualshield would be a better option. For field work 211 or better yet 232 is my choice.

It's not the high nickle variety 203, just regular multi pass. I do a lot of heavy equipment repair and fab. Most of the time it's outside, covered in oil, grease, and dirt. Another mechanic friend of mine suggested it to me as a step up from 211/212, but easier to run than 232/233 and more forgiving on fitup (ie ugly gaps on busted, bent junk). I run dual shield and full spray in the shop, but I'm out in the weather more often.

What is your inductance set at on the miller 304? There should be a "wire type" setting in there somewhere for flux core. Might make a difference.

I'll look at that. My machine is old enough to have the knob, and I think it was set in the middle from running rod.

I will back off on the voltage to around 21V and see what happens. I may just be trying to push this wire hotter and faster than it will stand.

Mark_D · Aug 28, 2018

Keep in mind if you are running a voltage sensing feeder, your voltage will drop 2 or 3 volts while welding. I always add about 3 volts to what I need.

Lincoln NR-203MP Experiences?

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