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Lets talk tig torches

6.6K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  dstevens  
#1 ·
Well i did some searching on the topic not looking for anything in particular to see if there was a general senses among the "elder welders". Maybe this information might help others, It might not. i might get flamed for starting this. But either way its worth a try.

What style tig torch do you prefer and WHY? do you like round handle or the d shaped handle? does the size feel good in your hand, will it take the abuse and mistreatment of daily activities?

What brand do you prefer? What are some things you noticed about your brand that others may not have ( materials used, construction, ease of getting consumables, price of torch, price of consumables etc )

Lets start there and see where to thread goes. it can be a good thread or a bad thread its all up to who partakes in the giving of information. Lets please not turn this is in to a *** swinging contest.


* Ps im not asking what brand is better then another.. im asking for your preference what you like. Never know maybe a general senses might emerge.
:drinkup::cool2:
 
#6 ·
Wookie, Care to elaborate on ck? you not care for a design? hard to find consumables? maybe a bad experience?

I really like the feel and weight of my ESAB HW20.
I used a Miller Dynasty 200 and the air cooled torch was like trying to write your name with a telephone pole.
Vwguy lol writing your name with a telephone pole thats funny right there. So your sayin the torch for you was a tad bit too big for your liking?

I have the Miller #17(Weldcraft) torch, and I agree with you. You need to upgrade to the Weldcraft H-100 handle. 3/4" diameter vs 1" diameter, and it's smooth, not ribbed. Almost feels like a watercooled torch.
kidtigger24
Kidtigger Thats some good info. I think i would like that smaller diameter handle my self. I feel i can be more precise with a smaller torch then a bigger one and be clumsy

I like the WP 17 flex head for scratch start. Tried a C & K but it was too flexible, walking the cup was like trying to push a wet noodle around the pipe. I don't care much for the D shaped handles, but it's probably because I'm used to the round handles. The WP20 is a nice compact water cooled torch, feather light compared to the 18. We got a parweld 20 with the switch built in to the handle. Nice setup when the foot pedal can't be used, esp with a machine that has the 4 step feature. If you want to talk about welding with a telephone pole, try a WP12 (500A water cooled)!!!
Welds thank you for the info also. ck just alittle to loose in the head thats good to know. I was looking at that torch actually.



Do you guys look at weight of the torch being a factor in your decision? I know i dont want a really sore wrist at the end of the day from holding a really heavy torch all day.

Thanks for the participation so far! :drinkup::cool2:
 
#4 ·
I have the Miller #17(Weldcraft) torch, and I agree with you. You need to upgrade to the Weldcraft H-100 handle. 3/4" diameter vs 1" diameter, and it's smooth, not ribbed. Almost feels like a watercooled torch.

kidtigger24
 
#5 ·
I like the WP 17 flex head for scratch start. Tried a C & K but it was too flexible, walking the cup was like trying to push a wet noodle around the pipe. I don't care much for the D shaped handles, but it's probably because I'm used to the round handles. The WP20 is a nice compact water cooled torch, feather light compared to the 18. We got a parweld 20 with the switch built in to the handle. Nice setup when the foot pedal can't be used, esp with a machine that has the 4 step feature. If you want to talk about welding with a telephone pole, try a WP12 (500A water cooled)!!!
 
#8 ·
I got the Lincoln version of the WP9 with the SW175. I was looking at 17s but after shopping a bit, I'll save for one of the Weld Tec water cooled kits from IOC. The 9 should keep me busy while still practicing but I think getting a water cooled torch is the best long term option, even for a smallish 175 amp machine.
 
#9 ·
I have that same tig with that same torch. I managed to gall the threads in the head from over heating it. And I used to burn my hands (through my gloves) on the black insulator handle (I had the smooth one). I purchased a new Weldcraft torch head and the ribbed handle and that took care of the handle getting super hot for most work (it was better at least).

I bought a Weldcraft WP17 and I find that it still gets uncomfortably hot a lot of the time (if I'm holding it by the "grip" notches on the torch head). If I grab the handle it's just a bit clumsy to use (at least for me). The WP17 is a good torch, but if I don't sell my tig here soon, I'm likely to go water cooled myself. I think I just expected too much out of the WP17.
 
#10 ·
WP-20 Weldcraft..
Watercooled and will last a LONNNNNNNG time providing it...


A...Don't get twisted in knots after years of abuse..
B.. The water stays flowing at all times while welding..

These are sorta small but pack a punch when needed..

...zap!
 
#12 ·
Didn't I see a picture somewhere on here of a certain person who blew up his watercooled torch because he didn't realize the leg to the stool he was sitting on was on the water line?:jester:

kidtigger24
 
#11 ·
I spent 25 years welding with what was provided. Having to make do with what is at hand.

I have used both air and water cooled and electrode from .040" to 5/16" amps from 6 to 1000.

So unless you are buying this for your self or are working for some company with unlimited funds... learn to use them all.

I also recommend to all that would listen learn to hold the torch in both hands and to feed with both hands.

The first GTAW job I had was high production bicycle accessories got paid by the part not the hour. Then it was on to high production, welding small square tube steel, making large weldment's that could not be positioned easily . Being able to move my position and not the part made me lots of money.
 
#14 ·
I really like themagnum 9 series watercooled torch that came with my PT275. It is the smallest torch I have ever had the pleasure of using, and with the button back cap, I can scoot it inside thinwall tubing and weld from the inside. I also second what FB said. I have always been quick to switch hands whether stick welding or whatever. When I was a kid I found out I had the obscure ability to write my name forwards with my right hand while simultaneously writing it backwards with my left hand.:confused: Weird I know. SO it's easy for me to switch.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I used the Weldcraft (and the Diamondback torches made by Weldcraft for Miller) for years, and still think they're quality torches. However, lately I've gone to the Speedway 320 Torch by Weldtec. Great torch in a small size. Takes up to a 5/32 tungsten and rated at 300+A.

One thing I particularly like about the Weldtec torches is the hose connection at the torch. Most (if not all) of the better Weldtec torches use a compression fitting for the hoses vs the wire tie found on most Weldcraft torches. Probably not a big thing, but just seems more positive.

As Zap mentioned, I'd recommend using the smallest torch that will carry the amps you need.

Also, I have nothing but the high flex rubber hoses (no plastic hose) on any of my torches. Water cooled is the way to go. The ONLY time I will use an air cooled torch is when doing low amp SS work in the field. Even then, I'll generally try to get a cooler to the site or pull off the yard water supply.


PS. If you've NEVER "burned up" a water cooled torch, you haven't done much tig welding. Last one I "fried", my helper repositioned my Dynasty for me while I was working on a radar arch. Set the machine right down on the water line. About 2 min later, had steam blowing out my hose about a foot below the torch. Those $60-70 power/water hoses get expensive real quick.