Yes it is true. The EP additives are hostile to yellow metals.

 

i have to say your wrong

many synchronized manual trans used gl5 gear oil per the service manual. toyota cars and trucks for many years. some dodge trucks as well. just to name a few.
this guy did a oil analysis after 10k miles. nothing suggestdd the synchos were degrading abnormally. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/gl5-uoas-in-c59-transmission.1693816/#post-14385745
my first hand experience is this. 8yr70k miles with gl5 80w90 in a dodge dakota ax15 5spd. shifted perfect when i sold it. tacoma ive had 14yrs with nothing but gl5 80w90 in the trans. shifts perfect.
how much longer until the synchros are destroyed. 20 30 40 years ?
the problem with many modern gl5 oil is its pre dosed with friction modifiers for limited slip differentials. perhaps its these friction modifiers causing synchros to not operate correctly and being damaged by driver abuse. just my hunch

 

Ok thanks. Pretty limited to what I can use in the transmission then for gl4. I’m probably ok to use the gl5 in the front and rear diffs because I don’t think they have any brass. Mobile 1 75-90 is like 11$ on Amazon.

 

Manual transmissions generally use GL1-90w, or non-detergent 50 wt motor oil. Tractor supply sells it in 2 gallon jugs for about $20, calling it "Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid", and the label specifically states that it is GL1 90w.
Napa Auto also sells the 90wt GL1.

 

Wow that’s A Good deal but I wanted to use a full synthetic

 

Is it true gl5 gear oil will eat away at brass parts in a manual transmission?

So, Is that really the question?

define "eat away"

In your case with that old klunker.... don't worry your pretty little head.

That tranny will outlast you.... even if you run straight 60wt. dino oil ..

put your focus on more important things in your life.


funny,
that little truck sat in the backyard for a couple years rusting...... Until your Powerstroke started acting up and you couldn't figure out the problem ..... then you went back to the mini truck. NOW the powerstroke is rusting....


some of us pay attention to the lunacy..... :laugh:

 

Might wanna use youre own words and focus on more important things in life too instead of proving you’re a miserable guy on here. Thanks man

 

Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 https://a.co/d/exTd1RE

 

Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 https://a.co/d/exTd1RE

I have to second that. I did some research and from what I've found (keep in mind, I don't know anything about Toyota.) Best I can tell, it has a R150F manual transmission (and a 5VZ-FE engine). I saw a lot of people recommending Redline MT-90.

Edit: Here's a link: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-r150f-need-help-choosing-mt-oil.318159/

 

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/unite...tter/engineering-solutions/understanding-the-differences-in-gear-oil-specs.html A good read on difference between GL4, and GL5, oils...............and where they should be used. GL4 is what you need for a manual transmission with synchronizers.

 

Read the Castrol info, and discard anything you hear/read in forums. Hell.............you see some of the bogus stuff posted on here:laugh:

 

It's like reading the news. Gotta get a couple different sources and compare. I put in about 10 or so minutes looking at Tacoma T-case fluid stuff (about 10 websites) and it sounds like GL5 is a no-go. I think they use "yellow metal" bushings in it.

I wonder in the "dual rated" lubricants like Valvoline SynPower would work. It's GL4/GL5.

 

Doesn't sound like a big deal to get a listed oil. Some use atf.

 

if motolife bothers to look at the service manual. or even the owners manual. it says gl4 or gl5 on those tacomas. the tcase is gl5 as well. ive no idea what material the synchros are made of. all i know is gl5 doesnt eat them.
but as i said before, i would probly avoid the predosed friction modified stuff

 

this is what alot of them say. i personally wouldnt put this type in a synchronised trans but thats just me

 

I won't even put that in an open diff, there are still one or 2 brands out there that don't do that. I'm not a fan of "one size fits all" products. Then at the grocery store it's the other extreme, all the products that used to be one type only now have 10 different kinds, like for example Triscuits or Visine. I'm the guy who always buys the "original" lol!

 

What’s so bad about that mobile 1?

 

Same with what Shell says

https://shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en/dba55b5e-9f07-4dd1-bd06-01fa0d6ddc5e.pdf

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en/fea1211d-b902-4300-b3d3-3f9b071dd0f7.pdf

Anyways............I run Fords that use ATF in the tranny:laugh:

 

Same with what Shell says

https://shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en/dba55b5e-9f07-4dd1-bd06-01fa0d6ddc5e.pdf

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en/fea1211d-b902-4300-b3d3-3f9b071dd0f7.pdf

Anyways............I run Fords that use ATF in the tranny:laugh:

Some stuff called "automatic transmission fluid"... and you put it in a transmission? Whoda thunk it?!

 

best rule of thumb is follow the service manual (not you tube or twitter or face book or randow posts on forums). ive never been led astray by the manual. if its says atf then use atf. if it says gl4 then use gl4. if it says gl5 then use gl5

 

100% truth.

Moto will probably put the aftermarket air filter on it eventually.

Leave a good thing alone and drive the snot out of it while keeping up with oil changes etc. no need to muck it up with aftermarket performance nonsense :/

 

View attachment AB265715-1418-46B5-AB3B-5A3242E93955.jpg View attachment 73D13E69-6315-4B2B-82F6-74305BCA1E1A.jpg View attachment 50B25C93-23F2-4CEE-9D8A-70349CA7C7AC.jpg got my transfer case and tranny done. Put about 5% of the heavy duty stuff in the transfer case and a 1/4 of it or so in the transmission. Oil for the diffs should be here Thursday. The transfer case calls for gl4 or gl5 I believe. The mtl is 75-80w gl4. Transmission didn’t look that bad. Seemed to shift a tad smoother. especially when putting in 1st or reverse at a stop

 

View attachment 1773721 View attachment 1773723 View attachment 1773725 got my transfer case and tranny done. Put about 5% of the heavy duty stuff in the transfer case and a 1/4 of it or so in the transmission. Oil for the diffs should be here Thursday. The transfer case calls for gl4 or gl5 I believe. The mtl is 75-80w gl4. Transmission didn’t look that bad. Seemed to shift a tad smoother. especially when putting in 1st or reverse at a stop

Might wanna check the differentials, too. I recommend Valvoline SynPower gear oil.

 

I wonder how 12V71 feels about Lucas oil additive.....

 

People think they know more that the oil engineers, so dumping in extra crap into your oil proves you are much smarter then them.. The oil companies spend millions on making a oil do what it's designed to do..I figure Joe blow knows best though..

 

I got the mobile 1 75-90 and going to change them today or tomorrow

 

Wasn’t that stuff originally promoted by high horse power drag racing teams?

 

I recently switched to Redline MTL 75W80 GL-4 in my Jeep NV3550 on the recommendation of folks on the Jeep forum. It is very smooth, but then that transmission only has 14K on it after a rebuild. The only issue I have is the drain plug leaks now. Going to try some of this on my next change which will be sooner rather than later, I don't like leaking vehicles.

 

Your rear main seal is leaking.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dvrSQ...Q&t=48s&pp=ygUvbHVjYXMgaGVhdnkgZHV0eSBvaWwgc3RhYnVsaXplciBpbiB0dGFuc21pc3Npb24=

 

Plenty of yellow metal safe synthetic GL5 gear lubes available.

 

Many newer manual transmissions are using very light viscosity in an effort to meet new economy standards.

 

My daughter had a '98 S10 manual gear box truck,,
The transmission became hard to shift,, I changed the oil.

Even the dealers in town did not have the oil, I had to go to an AMSOIL dealer to get it,
A rather thin synthetic oil,,

It shifted perfectly, about a week after the oil change.

Only 250,000 miles, and I had to change the oil!!! What happened to the good old days,, when you only had to add extra 90WT every 10,000 miles??

 

Changing the supercharger oil next. I don’t think there is a drain and don’t really wanna take the nose off so I’ll probably try and suck it out View attachment 4229D0BB-EDA2-405C-931D-769BA6087702.jpg I’ve heard most all supercharger oil is the same stuff. Going to try and get a thermostat in it first

 

Changing the supercharger oil next. I don’t think there is a drain and don’t really wanna take the nose off so I’ll probably try and suck it out View attachment 1774071 I’ve heard most all supercharger oil is the same stuff. Going to try and get a thermostat in it first

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html

 

That’s a good idea thanks

 

I have one. They work pretty well. Nice for testing for vacuum leaks, too.

 

View attachment D4480ED3-5D4B-4B32-93A8-7C777067D258.jpg found mine looking for my 220 extension cord last night.

 

View attachment 1774135 found mine looking for my 220 extension cord last night.

Sweet! Theres $20 you don't have to spend again.

 

View attachment IMG_2945.jpg

For $100 she sucks, she blows... only thing she doesn't do is cook...