. . .I am just asking around to see how others are installing their cable ends.

The "free" copper sleeve has been gone for awhile.
I've been nipping a small piece out of copper sheet and then rolling it into a sleeve.

I think that using a sleeve makes for a better connection then simply burying the set screw into the cable.

Good Luck

 

i take a piece of 1/2" L copper, cut me out a 180 degree piece and steel wool both sides..crimp and mash as required..
i recently bought a 200amp stinger for stick welding..$10 in harbor freight that came with a little piece of metal to be so used..saw the identical one in tractor supply for $15 next day..

 

Recently, I made up two sets of welding leads from a single 100 ft long lead with end terminated with a Dinse connector. As you say, the set screw was just mashed down on the wires - no brass/copper protector plate. Made it harder to get the connector/cable apart.

When installing ground clamps and electrode holders, I used either the brass shim that came with half the clamps/holders or I made my own sleeve from brass shim stock - a bonus is that the thin brass wrap holds all the loose wires together for insertion into the clamp/holder.

Another good idea on rubber covered connectors is to put a film grease on the inside of the rubber. I spent darn near 1/2 hour trying to pry the rubber sleeve off the brass inset - yes I had removed the set screw! A film of lubricant would have eased my pain. :laugh:

 

Ive "tinned" cable ends in the past, just solder em up so the end is more or less solid and clamp that down, Seems to keep the cable from fraying and loosing strands and the lug has something more solid to bite into. Also helps get large cable into a hole that is nearly too small

 

I have tried that in the past but, on some connectors or electrode holders it will not let the set screw, screw down far enough to get the handle back on. It work on some.

I like the idea of the half copper tubing between the wire and the set screw.

Dan

 

Just an FYI, you can get solder from an electronics store that still has lead in it. A bit softer and melts at something like 700deg F vs. 800deg F for the no-lead (I know it about 100 deg diff).

Its getting harder to find because Europe doesn't even want electronics with lead (disposal issues). Pretty sure its still legal in the US.

Just don't mix it up with your plumbing solder.(duh!)

 

eutectic solder, 63% tin 37% lead has the lowest melting point and is used in making printed circuit board repairs. It also has a very narrow (almost non existent) plastic range. As I recall it is either solid or liqud.

 

A film of lubricant would have eased my pain.

That's what she said.

 

that's what she said.

doh!!!

 

I've cut shim sections out of a coke can to get me out of trouble in the field. a squirt of anti-spatter spray or a film of nozzle dip will ease the pain also..... another trick for tweco handpieces is to silver solder the loose copper thingy and the cable inside the connector block on the side away from the grub screws so you can change goosenecks without the whole thing coming apart. i can change different angled goosenecks in 2 minutes. Handy for bucket work.