long reach visegrip welding clamps might work for you.

 

I have those and I just attach the clamp to the edge. Put the rounded half on the underside, an the U-shaped half on the top bent edge. I also use the brass Berger clamps from harbor freight and they make clamping a bit easier.

 

I have a couple long ones but the staple in this business is 11R and a couple 4 of the 6 I believe, the smaller ones. Tack a strip tp one side or even some scheme to the end to clamp to.

 

I only have two of the long ones and I rarely use them on the table.

Used mostly for the “reach” on deep assemblies and rarely for actual welding purposes.

 

You're the only person I've seen that has more visegrips than me. I probably have 40 pair (counting regular vise grips I weld with) I'm getting there, though. I think I'm going to start buying tool lots off of Ebay...

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I really like that little table, how much does it cost?

 

$90 regular price, but cheaper on sale or with coupon. Used to be cheaper pre-pandemic. But can buy them used for less than $50.

https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-steel-welding-table-61369.html

The hassle is finding a good way to clamp. Of the responses so far, the only one that I understood is the long reach vise grips. I might try to make a clamp that will work with the table's slots out of flat bar.

 

Lis,,, that is the right number of 11R, I tell women,,, no socks or underwear for the guym give him an 11R. What if he already has one? I said, he has 10 and always looking for another one.
I am a real vise grip fan. They have continued a good product and pursued vendors willing to sell at the right price. Channelock the same way on standard models. Those are the most only ones I really care so much about.

 

Lis,,, that is the right number of 11R, .

actually the RIGHT number is one or two more lol

 

the ones that say they have ten need a new tape measure ....

 

Perhaps you could add a "pad" on to the fixed end of the C clamp thick enough to compensate for the lip on the bent down portion of the slot.

 

Yes, I was thinking exactly this for my bar clamps, and came to post my brilliant insight, only to discover that I had been beaten to the punch! :drinkup:

For those who aren't following, here's the cheap (so I have lots of these) HF bar clamp:
View attachment 96210_W3.jpg

So you remove the plastic bits, then weld a block of metal (or perhaps a piece of small square tubing) to the fixed end such that the fixed end is now taller than the lip of slots in the table. This allows you to use the clamp with the turning handle on the top side of the table, which is far more convenient than having to reach underneath the table to tighten/loosen the clamp.

 

oops. i missed the part about the bent tab /slot. sorry.

 

I think you had it right with the fabricated "T", just hook the ends of the crossbar to fit the folded down metal and reach into the flat part of the table for support.

 

It is very light table.
I do not know working you are doing but long run build a good table at less 1/4" upto 3/4"
I built mind out scrape 8" channel and i can hit with 4 pound hammer and does move.

The size is OK for the Harbor Freight maybe a little small but will not last long

Dave

I have the Harbor Freight welding table. The sheet metal top is bent down at the slots, which helps stiffen the top, but makes clamping a bit more difficult. Because of those bent down edges, using bar clamps or C-clamps means you are reaching under the table to tighten/loosen the clamp.

It would be a lot more convenient to tighten/loosen clamps from above the table. Wondering what guys are using to clamp workpieces down to this and similar tables. DIY'ing a clamp is also an option if there's a good design.


View attachment 1741069

 

I ended up welding a little metal block onto the fixed end of a C-clamp to lift it above the slots. Now I can tighten it from the top instead of fumbling underneath—it’s so much easier. Honestly, if you’re doing a lot of welding, it might be worth building a sturdier table down the line. Kind of like how having a solid Computer Desks makes working a lot less frustrating.

 

Looks like you have threaded holes on the side. Cut a piece of angle, drill a hole, polish the mill scale off and maybe the coating on the table, put copper antiseize between the table and angle iron, and bolt it down. If you want, add a thicker pad to the part you'd clamp to and grind the inside of the angle flat for better holding of the clamp. I'd use copper antiseize on the clamp as well.

It seems more complicated to explain than to do.