I would think that electronic cleaner would work, but chlorinated brake cleaner or trichloroethylene, etc, teflon tape can be used on the threads, yes they're pipe threads, just don't get the tape anywhere that it may foul the regulator. Just don't use any petroleum based cleaners or lubricants, check PTFE grease for petroleum distillates.

 

In my experience, the high pressure CGA inlet fittings at the regulator are compression fittings and not pipe thread, so teflon tape will do no good. The sealing surface needs to be clean and free of nicks and dings to seal properly. Maybe there is one into pipe thread, but I have never seen one and I have a couple dozen regulators at work and we often change the inlet fittings when we change gasses.

 

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[I typed this response an hour or more ago but got sidetracked by a call and some other work, before submitting it now.]

...The knobs on the handle were very hard to turn. But as I keep working them they are getting better. I did order a rebuild kit and proper lube to go through it. I didn't realize they had a special cleaner. Can I just use something on a q-tip like brake cleaner, or iso alcohol? Or do you really need the special stuff? My order all ready shipped so I would have to find something local.

I turned the gas on and checked for leaks with soapy water. The hoses are junk. On the ox regulator there is a small leak on the threads that go from the supply pipe into the regulator body. I assume this is just a pipe thread? Can I just tighten it or should I use some kind of thread sealer on it. Maybe teflon tape?

...

Please advise. Thanks.

If the torches have packing nuts at the valves, they may just need to be loosened a sixth of a turn and the valve handle unscrewed/screwed down a few times to loosen them.
What needs cleaning? As for grease, anything used with oxygen (the torch,regulator,hose, etc.) has to be compatible and that includes Teflon tape. Some of the tape isn't; the local welding shop should have a variety that is.

As for the leak, how is the regulator stem turned? Does the ball end have a hex outer surface, or an inner one for a hex key? Can you unscrew the stem and if so, how tight is/was it?
I believe the threads are straight and finer than pipe threads, but don't at the moment recall the thread designation [a standard bolt thread?] The end of the stem may have a turned, circular lip that makes an interference fit inside the regulator so the threads don't need sealing such as with teflon; you should be able to tell by looking if that's the situation.

 

That's the high pressure oxygen inlet. I wouldn't use anything there that is even remotely combustible. When you open the oxygen cylinder, you could create a regulator fire if there is anything combustible coming into contact with high pressure oxygen. I wouldn't do it. My advice is that you don't use teflon tape or thread sealant.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaBghGKAOBo

 

https://www.firehouse.com/apparatus...video/21281212/oxygen-regulator-eyed-as-cause-of-deadly-honolulu-ambulance-fire

 

I'm not sure where it would say USA made for that torch. When I was affiliated with Victor that torch ( Fire Power, Cut Skill ) was made in China as a lower cost alternative to the genuine product. Just because it was made in China does not make it junk though. It was made to to Victor spec other than the 3 tube head design, plating and generic looking knobs. That's why it can be re-built where most all Chinese torches can not. Good Luck !

 

Wow. I didn't know I had all these replies. I only got a notification for the first one. Hmmm.

The torch and handle both say made in the USA on them. Not that it matters.

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And it is not a pipe thread as I originally thought. There is a seat at the bottom where it goes into the regulator body. I can tell this has been worked on, there's tool marks on the pipe. I would say there was a piece of metal that got in there some how. Who knows. And the pipe got tightened down with trash under the flare/seat what ever you want to call it. This is probably where the leak is.

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The grease I ordered to rebuild the torch is oxygen safe. I googled oxygen safe teflon tape. It said to use green. I called every conceivable place with in driving distance, including welding shops. They never heard of it. The welding shops said they just use blue loctite or white teflon tape. I called an online rebuild service and they said the same thing and they've done thousands.

No way would I use white teflon tape. But after all these places told me they use blue loctite and never had an issue,,, that's what I did. I was going to let it dry overnight before I tried it. But now I'm kinda leery? Now I don't know what they hell to do,,,lol.

Here's the deal. Like I originally said the hoses were junk, and the torch needed attention. I was in no hurry to fix it. I have plenty other projects going. But a friend wanted to use the cutting torch. I told him it was all junked out. Needed hoses and the torch rebuilt, and I was in no hurry to do it. He said he was desperate for a torch and would pay for what ever it needed. So he bought all the stuff. It will all be here tomorrow and he was going to use the torch to cut a truck frame in half. He has a junkyard lined up to come get the left overs.

Would I dare risk using this thing one time with the blue loctite? Then get a different regulator or maybe a new pipe nipple? I kinda doubt those are available? Or are they?

 

Update:

I think I don't want to trust the blue loctite with someone else's life.

I have a machinist friend whom I asked about this. He ask me if I told all those places that said use loctite, or white teflon that the seat was damaged? I don't think I mentioned that. Can't really remember. He thinks they are getting away with it because it's just a secondary seal for them, and their parts were probably not damaged like mine. Kinda makes sense I guess.

So he said he could machine the surface of the pipe nipple but couldn't do inside the reg body. I don't think the pipe bottoms out anyway does it? Just counts on some outer contact to seal? But I said it would be too hard to match the profile. He said it doesn't have to match exactly as long as it makes contact all the way around. And we could test it for leaks on his tank when he's done.

Here's a kick in the head. If I had the cash I would just **** can this regulator. My machinist friend who gives me all kinds of stuff, gave me a nice medium duty acetylene reg. He said he had the oxy reg too but can't find it. But he said I can tear his place apart looking for it before he tries to machine anything,,,lol.

So have you guys every heard of Gentec regulator's. This is a medium duty. Pretty heavy. But they are made in China. Does that even matter anymore? So For the price of what a matching Gentec reg costs I wonder if I could set get a set of new ones?

Here's the reg I need. Is these good quality and worth the price? Or would I be better off with a new pair of something else? This one can be found a little cheaper.

https://www.homelectrical.com/452-s...um-duty-single-stage-regulator.gen-452x80.1.html?q=gentec regulator&nid=2626072

 

Spinning that stem in a lathe and using a hand-held file (or grinding a form tool that matches the current profile) would work for the stem machining; the form tool could even be made of mild steel for the job of just touching up the brass. If your machinist friend is willing, it can't hurt trying.

If the regulator body seating surface does small depressions, you could make a ring of 1/16" solid (coreless) lead solder that would go against the regulator seat area and get crushed when the stem seats, providing a good safe 'gasket'. Make the ring jointless by soldering it together and cleaning any flux or other contaminants off and maybe flatten it a bit. No Loctite there!

I'm old-fashioned and prefer to trust good old American companies, plus I only use Amazon when really needed, not for things like this.


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So I looked at one of my old USA made Victor Firepower oxygen regulators from back in the 80s that was bad and it turns out that it has pipe threads on the inlet fitting that screws into the valve. It had teflon tape as a sealer too and this is OEM from the factory as I bought it new. First one I had seen, so shut my mouth.

UPDATE: I checked the spec sheets on 4 different CGA540 stems and all of them have a 1/4 inch NPT pipe thread for connection to the regulator body, so this appears to be the CGA spec for this type of regulator. Chances are that yours is pipe thread too, so the dinged end won’t matter because it seals on the threads.

No reason to try to fix the doinked inlet stem. You can buy a CGA540 valve stem anywhere for $10-20, including on Amazon and it will fit.

 

Mine is not pipe thread. You can tell by looking at the pic above. And this regulator is a Harris.

 

I like Bradley's answer... just replace the stem. Can you buy a medium duty Victor Regulator cheaper than the Gentec? The answer is yes, but I am not familiar with Gentec products and I doubt from what I'm seeing that the new Chinese made Victors are any better quality.

https://store.cyberweld.com/victor-oxygen-regulator-0781-9400.html

 

So here's where I'm at,,,lol.

I took this to my machinist friend on Saturday. He tried to machine it, but it still leaked. We both agree there is a nick in the regulator body. I thought it was too high up where any kind of washer could seal it.

On the way home from his place I stopped at a local welding supply. They did in fact have a new nipple. He said he would put it on and test it. Well he wasn't gone 2 minutes. I thought no way he could do all that in that short of time. I asked did he use any sealer. He said "Ya. Blue loctite". :dizzy: I just didn't say anything and left.

I was too nervous about the loctite so I took it apart and cleaned it up. Put it back together, and it leaked,,,lol. Just for fun I checked the other half of the pair of regulators. It had all ready passed before. But then I seen a tiny leak on the high pressure gauge.

I said screw it. I'm tired of futchin with this stuff all ready. I have what looks like a brand new $130 Gentec acetylene regulator, I'm buying a new matching oxygen regulator. Got it off of Amazon for $119.

I could be wrong since I'm no expert. But to my untrained eye these Gentec's look nicer than the modern Victors? Right or wrong that's what I done and it's over,,,lol.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Not at all like the Victor on the inside but will likely last you 30 years just the same. Now you're all set !

 

By the time a guy gets parts and fusses with this can buy a reg brandy new at HF for 70 and thats paying a lot, bet there is one for 50 like it. New stem, new seals, new body, new gages. Seems to me I was browsing and seen some paste was listed oxy safe. I see some white tape on new and ome kind of stuff almost looked like white locktite. It appears 1 reg is all u need, that woul;d be cheaper easier than fussing with machine tools and bet money someone would have more in gas than they save even if the parts were free. It would be aq little different at 500$ but fixing a torch reg can be done but is a hard way to save money,,,,, I know,,,, we got experts but I aint talkin to them,,, this is to a guy wants to use a torch and today is good vs putting it off in to a long drawn out scheme.