I have to cut a sheet of steel and i need to cut a long straight line. what should i use. thanks. it is a 6 to 1 oxy/ate torch. thanks
mark123
If I have to cut a long straight line in anything, I set up a good straightedge as a guide.
Doesn't matter if it is with my oxy torch, my plasma, or my circular saw.
I would grab a chunk of scrap and attach the straightedge and make a test cut. This will tell you how far from the edge of the straightedge your torch will cut and how big the kerf is.
My circular saw cuts 1 1/2" from the guide to the near side blade edge set one way, 5" IIRC from the straightedge to the near edge of the cut from the other side. So if I want a cut 12 1/16" from the plate edge and use the 5" saw offset, I need to set the straight edge so that it is 7 1/16" from the plate edge. 12 1/16" - 5" offset = 7 1/16"
Remember that you loose the kerf of the cut. That's why I usually set up a test piece and double check that I have the correct offset figured. Sometimes I have to set the straightedge on the "waste" piece rather than the "Good" piece. Then I need to subtract the width of the kurf from my measurement. so if my kerf is 1/8" wide in the example above I would set the straightedge at 6 15/16" rather than the original 7 1/8" so that the piece is not too small by the width of the kerf. (been there, done that, and will do it again I am sure) That's why I always do a test cut.
Doesn't matter if it is with my oxy torch, my plasma, or my circular saw.
I would grab a chunk of scrap and attach the straightedge and make a test cut. This will tell you how far from the edge of the straightedge your torch will cut and how big the kerf is.
My circular saw cuts 1 1/2" from the guide to the near side blade edge set one way, 5" IIRC from the straightedge to the near edge of the cut from the other side. So if I want a cut 12 1/16" from the plate edge and use the 5" saw offset, I need to set the straight edge so that it is 7 1/16" from the plate edge. 12 1/16" - 5" offset = 7 1/16"
Remember that you loose the kerf of the cut. That's why I usually set up a test piece and double check that I have the correct offset figured. Sometimes I have to set the straightedge on the "waste" piece rather than the "Good" piece. Then I need to subtract the width of the kurf from my measurement. so if my kerf is 1/8" wide in the example above I would set the straightedge at 6 15/16" rather than the original 7 1/8" so that the piece is not too small by the width of the kerf. (been there, done that, and will do it again I am sure) That's why I always do a test cut.
I use my Track Torch. Yeh, I know smart a$$.
I also have several lengths of 1 1/2" x 3/8" angle, 1 foot thru 4 foot, that I use as a straight edge to guide my hand held torch or plasma cutter for cutting straight lines when I'm too lazy to set up the track torch.
Simply position the angle, spaced away from your mark the the distance from the cutting oxygen hole in the center of your tip to the outside of the tip. Clamp the angle, and go for it.
Good Luck
I also have several lengths of 1 1/2" x 3/8" angle, 1 foot thru 4 foot, that I use as a straight edge to guide my hand held torch or plasma cutter for cutting straight lines when I'm too lazy to set up the track torch.
Simply position the angle, spaced away from your mark the the distance from the cutting oxygen hole in the center of your tip to the outside of the tip. Clamp the angle, and go for it.
Good Luck
Some one told me once, look where you are going, not where you are at. It works for me freehand. For really straight long lines, I grab a piece of angle and "ride" the torch on the angle. When the angle heats up, it can warp on me causing a curved line.
I also have some 1/2" X 3" plate with a handle welded to it. I call it an Iron. It makes a good guide and doesn't warp.
Now I mostly use a plasma. It has a 1" cup, so I add 1/2" to the measurement and use a guide. It doesn't heat up and warp like with the torch.
David
I also have some 1/2" X 3" plate with a handle welded to it. I call it an Iron. It makes a good guide and doesn't warp.
Now I mostly use a plasma. It has a 1" cup, so I add 1/2" to the measurement and use a guide. It doesn't heat up and warp like with the torch.
David
Ok, this is gonna sound really weird, but I was exposed to lead paint as a baby so isss ok:laugh:
First off, throw the soapstone in the garbage. Get a good silver pencil and mark the line.
Get as far back on your torch handle as you can. You can cut straighter if the torch will move in a wide arc (I know it sounds weird). See roughly where you can start and will have to stop on the wide arc. Then get your left hand comfortable on the plate or a rest. Two handed grip-left hand cradling your right hand which is holding the torch
If you don't believe me, try it without the torch running. You'll be surprised how straight you can adhere to the line with very little movement where your hands are resting. You'll have a few starts and stops. I usually can cut around 12-14 inches at a time before a restart. Kill the O2 at the point you have to restart, and lift the torch. Don't do a long preheat before you start again.
THEN GET ABSOLUTELY ZEN, AND BECOME THE LINE. I don't care if a tick climbs in yer sock and starts makin a meal outta your left toe, or a small grass fire starts under the plate-- BECOME THE LINE.
I have never been steady enough to cut straight without a rest, and using a straightedge hasn't been satisfactory. Your tip angle has a tendancy to change, and the friction of the copper on the straightedge tends to drag and cause erratic cutting speed.
You'll have to excuse me now, there's 4 very calm gents at the door with a nice clean white straightjacket:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
Yes, this is actually the way I cut:blush:
First off, throw the soapstone in the garbage. Get a good silver pencil and mark the line.
Get as far back on your torch handle as you can. You can cut straighter if the torch will move in a wide arc (I know it sounds weird). See roughly where you can start and will have to stop on the wide arc. Then get your left hand comfortable on the plate or a rest. Two handed grip-left hand cradling your right hand which is holding the torch
If you don't believe me, try it without the torch running. You'll be surprised how straight you can adhere to the line with very little movement where your hands are resting. You'll have a few starts and stops. I usually can cut around 12-14 inches at a time before a restart. Kill the O2 at the point you have to restart, and lift the torch. Don't do a long preheat before you start again.
THEN GET ABSOLUTELY ZEN, AND BECOME THE LINE. I don't care if a tick climbs in yer sock and starts makin a meal outta your left toe, or a small grass fire starts under the plate-- BECOME THE LINE.
I have never been steady enough to cut straight without a rest, and using a straightedge hasn't been satisfactory. Your tip angle has a tendancy to change, and the friction of the copper on the straightedge tends to drag and cause erratic cutting speed.
You'll have to excuse me now, there's 4 very calm gents at the door with a nice clean white straightjacket:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
Yes, this is actually the way I cut
:blush:
Mark123 - What does "6 to 1 oxy/ate torch" mean?
Mandau - These two men need to find something else to do...
View attachment 28636
...Besides watching the new floor being ruined! :angry: :realmad:
The guy standing is holding the hose for the automated turning, the guy at the back is holding and guiding the circular compass. Both the guy is standing on the plate which is wooden supported below. The floor will never be ruin. This is a cutting process not WELDING.
This 3 person operated the old fashion cutting machine... anyway it feed their family then having see then sitting on the bench chewing their nail off...
This 3 person operated the old fashion cutting machine... anyway it feed their family then having see then sitting on the bench chewing their nail off...
Ok Uncle... did I mention I am going to polish the floor in next to year after the second building is ready?... But your advice is a great thinking ... I bet my worker will swear and love you to no end...
I will tell this new marketing lady to move those plates thanks to you sir
I will tell this new marketing lady to move those plates thanks to you sir
Attachments
http://www.lencocanada.com/pdf.d/800-05.pdf mark123 check out this link there is a variety of cutting and layout tools.
i can tell you that cutting will pop concrete and it hurts. i ran a track torch cutting plates to size for our tanks. the table was waist high and we would cut 3/8 on up with o/a and o/propane. we used roofing tin to keep the concrete safe. there was several pock marks when we would forget to move the tin.
I hope those are welding glasses and not just sun glasses.
Sunglasses will not protect your eyes.
A trick for you.
When you cut long lines or large curves leave a small part like 1/2 inch UNCUT every foot or so, then when you are finished you can go back and cut the uncut small sections.
Th purpose is you can prevent warping of the edge because the heat causes shrinkage.
Very useful on curves and especially when cutting holes in a large sheet or portholes in a cabin of a boat.
Sunglasses will not protect your eyes.
A trick for you.
When you cut long lines or large curves leave a small part like 1/2 inch UNCUT every foot or so, then when you are finished you can go back and cut the uncut small sections.
Th purpose is you can prevent warping of the edge because the heat causes shrinkage.
Very useful on curves and especially when cutting holes in a large sheet or portholes in a cabin of a boat.
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