Is it a cold saw or a dry cut saw?

 

I think you would call that a "dry cut saw". We have 2 Doringer cold cut (wet) saws at work. Totally different blade as the blades are high speed steel, with no carbide. Of course, about $9,000 each.

 

I also purchased the evo 380 (i think) , chop saw and love the saw but am having problems with blade life . While im still troubleshooting this issue, i have found that the yellow stainless blade has the longest life , regardless of what your cutting . So i keep a couple blades and have them marked for different materials (so i don't cross contaminate) but obviously something is not right . The stainless blades will cut 2x2x1/4 stainless angle all day long but as soon as you stick a piece of 2" sch40 stainless pipe in their you can literally feel the blade loose it's cutting ability . What i have found is I'm overheating the blade but with round material i cant rotate to achieve a better cut and I'm not pushing the saw , i let it cut at it's own rate . Again love the saw but would love some guidance on blade life . This thing should eat 2" pipe in my mind I'm not getting anywhere near the recommended blade life . I also bought the 9" circular saw from evo and the blade life on it is a joke cutting 3/16 mild steel plate . Im currently looking a track torch to mount my plasma torch on .
I have said nothing to help your situation, but just know your not alone.

 

I have a evulsion cold saw, & love it. But my blade is dull now. I cut everything with it but a lot of 6061 aluminum.
The blade that came on the saw is a 14 inch multiple blade. Not bad but is there a better choice ? Fly :waving:

Get your blade sharpened. You can't use another type of blade. It is designed for a specific RPM range. My cold saw spins at a whopping 44 or 22 rpm. cold saws made for non-ferrous metal are 3500 rpm and they still use a Carbite tipped blade. those are also sharpened and teeth replaceable.

If you knock off a few of the carbide teeth, the company that sharpens the blade can install new teeth. They I had a dry cut saw, it cost me about $17 to sharpen a 72tooth, 14" blade and $5 per tooth to replace missing or cracked ones. I had 4-5 blades that I kept sharp in rotation. I used this saw daily for full time work. My saw was a 14" Milwaukee with their blade which, I believe, was made in Japan. A very good blade. I tried one Chinese blade at it was a total POS. Which your blade very well could be. I would not waste the time or money sharpening or maintaining a made-in-China saw blade.

 

I was wondering if you don't mind who do you use to sharpen your blades?

 

Well you are right it is a dry saw, it cuts at a lower speed & the metal is cool to the touch after making a cut. But it does have carbide teeth.

Fly

 

Scotchman industry's sells new cold saw blades quite reasonably priced as well as a re sharping service.

 

OK. I assumed it was a Dry Cut saw, but just wanted to verify. I bought my spare blades from http://www.carbideprocessors.com/ someone on here referred me to them. I haven't used any of them I bought yet since I'm still on my original blade.

You can also get your sent in to be re sharpened.

 

IMO, you are wasting time and money if you're using a cold saw to cut aluminum.

 

Yea, I agree... I cut all my Alum with a carbide wood blade. I get a big block of beeswax and hit the teeth with it every once and a while. Mostly 6061, angle & bar. Works Great!

 

You do not have cold saw, they are DRY CUT saws. Various manufacturers with RPM's 1300-1800 ranges, saw blades are available for steel, aluminum or stainless. Yes you can sharpen the blades and it should only cost you $15-$20 to have them done professionally. You can also get your own cheap sharpener from Horrible Freight, which while a pretty crappy tool, you can modify it to resharpen your blades good enough, but no where near as super accurate as a professional sharpener. Even though these are "dry cut" saws, I always use some WD-40 and give a few squirts while cutting, ESPECIALLY with aluminum which likes to stick to the blades.

 

I cut aluminum on my dewalt dw718 wood saw. No issues.

What kind of blade life do you guys using dry saws see cutting 11g and 1/4 materials?

90% of my cutting is 1/4" x 2" plate and 1.5" 11g tubing. Debating getting a dry saw if it's worth the time savings.

 

Well the blade I have on it was the one it came with a Rage 14inch dia with 36 teeth. They say it works on steel, Aluim & it has. It has held up very well. They make one
for just Aluim but its $30 more. I was just wondering if it would be worth the extra cost. Does not seem many here know.

Fly

 

What if you already have the cold saw for stainless and mild steel. Is it still a waste to use ur cold saw to cut aluminum?

 

Can't imagine how you got so turned-around....

The statement was made that it would be a waste of money to invest in a specialty Blade or Saw just to cut Aluminum.

You now want to be assured that, already having a specialized metal cutting saw, should you now invest in a Wood Blade? (plus now bringing your 5" grinder in the equation for some reason).

Are you for Real

 

I use my dewalt miter saw with a 60 tooth wood finish blade for all of my aluminum. Works awesome and still have never had to sharpen the blade.
I even use my craftsman table saw to cut aluminum sheets about 1/8" thick. Carbides gum up a little bit but it's fast and straight.

 

Aright. Lemme pizz everone off.....again/
A "cold saw" is a sort of horizontal mill that turns a large and heavy milling cutter disc very, very, very slow with the material supported on each side of the cut/mill. Its often liquid cooled.
The dry saw is just that. DRY. Cold ? Not exactly "cold" but with thinn-ish material will remain close to ambient temps of the steel its cutting. Its a low RPM thing designed to not create much heat and risk separating the carbide teeth from the disc.....nor will(should) it work harden anything it cuts.
In laymans terms. It fuggin brilliant ! Its the best offering to the genaral fabricator(non machinist) since the refrigerator !

 

I have the a rage 2 with the blue steel blade. Works awesome. See if you can use that one in ur saw


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

For the sake of asking again, not to hijack the thread but

For a DRY SAW, what kind of blade life can be expected between sharpenings cutting 11g tube and 1/4" flat bar?

I have a 7x12 bandsaw already and the blade life obviously is unbeatable but time is money... granted I usually do other work while it cuts, but when you're cutting thinner materials it basically lops it off by the time you can start other work.

 

I cant tell you how much cutting I have done exactly with my Evolution 14 inch dry cut (haven't kept track since purchasing it). But I can say it is for sure better than an abrasive. I have cut 3/8"x6" and 1/2'x6 inch no problem. I don't baby this thing. I knocked the first carbide tip off by starting the saw and not having it all the way up to speed before putting it into steel. Then just a couple of days ago I knocked 3 more off (all next to each other on the blade). The piece of steel I was cutting got loose, I didn't have it clamped tight enough... OOPS ! Anyhow even though the saw has 4 teeth knocked off it will still slice through 1/2"x6" flat bar no problem. The saw does now leave a little burr though. My blade would be in much better shape only for operator error on my part, I figure I will get much more time out of my next blade. I have two more Evolution blades and 2 Milwaukee blades so I should be good for a while. I hope the Milwaukee blades are as good as the Evolution.

 

Pretty sure you didn't pizz anybody off. OP was just axkin bout saw blades, not definitions.....

 

On my 14" carbide tipped dry cut saw, cutting 2x2" tubing sucked because the blade first made contact with the steel in the flat part of the tubing. That is what dulls blades quickly. Ideally, the saw blade first hits the steel out on the outside corner. The saw really liked 1.5" square tube or smaller.

 

Does it help to put the piece on edge?

1.5" is my main item I cut along with 2" flat. Which would obviously give me the same issue as you have.

 

Using the Morse V-block setup in my Makita 12" I can get about 3000 cuts on 3/4"_ to 2 1/2" tubing from 14 ga to 1/8" wall.
These other companies make their money on blades.The saw is "free". That's why they don't offer a V block.Morse does because...well.....Morse is Morse ( yeah-I'm a fanboy). Best of the best in my book.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1DYRWDVquo

 

Guys when I started this thread I said I cut Alum most of the time. But I cut steel also. This Evolution saw has been used for both steel & Alum.
The blade is what came with the saw & is a mutable blade for both. The alum I cut is 2inch 6061 t6 bar stock & heavy wall tube. I thought about buying there blade for just
alum & having another for steel. But I think I will stick with this one. It seems no one here has ever try there alum blade. But being a retired tool & die maker
they did not make these dry cold cut chop saws in my day that I ever saw. This thing is fast, the metal does not heat up & leaves no burrs.

But I can see "most" here, not all have never used one of these saws . Thanks for the replys.

Fly
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