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Black Death,

Yes, still have my original manual, as well as additional info I downloaded from Lincoln's website. I have put it all into a single PDF, have PM'd you to get it to you, too big to attach here.


Mike
 
I have one. Bought it in 2004 used for $100, it included the gas kit but I don't use gas. I like the adjustments for both speed and heat since I weld anything from 11ga to dryer skin. Since it was my first welder I didn't know it at the time but it was actually pretty weak when I got it. After maybe 10 lbs of wire it finally gave out in 2009. 5 out of 8 diodes were shot. I replaced them all. But it still didn't spark, and replacing the optocoupler (the little white IC chip MOC3021) finally did the trick, so fixed it for around $30. After that it welded pretty amazingly! After about another maybe 20 lbs of wire it gave out again last week and I suspect it's the same thing. The board is pretty easy to check everything and rebuild if needed. I just haven't gotten a chance to take it apart again to confirm what's wrong this time.
 
Checked it out tonight. 2 burned diodes, a burned circuit board trace, and several spots where the solder blew out same as it did before. And 2 overheated resistors, one of which I replaced before. R8 I can't tell anymore but it reads 12 ohms. Photos of the board (#880-217-666) are not super clear but it looks like 12 ohms might be correct. Can anyone confirm R8?

I think it's time to rebuild this board and beef up some of the weak spots and maybe the heat sink too. And maybe add an extra fan over the board.
 
For the record it is fixed now. Turned out to be basically identical to what I had to replace in 2009. Diodes, 2 overheated resistors (a 12 ohm and 100 ohm), some cooked traces, and the optocoupler. I also did the same thing I did last time. Replaced it all, put it together, and it didn't spark. Opened it back up and replaced the optocoupler (to confirm it was really bad) and now good spark. The optocoupler is connected to one of the eight diodes and when that diode goes it must take the optocoupler with it. Last time it went it took 5 bad diodes before it got the one with the optocoupler. Like roulette I suppose. Looks like I'll be ordering some more sets of spares for when these go.
 
I recently bought a Century 130, and first used it last weekend. This was done with flux core wire. I doubt I'll ever add a bottle and run gas since this meets my needs as is.

This sure runs smoother than the HF 90-AC I've been using for occasional farm repairs. (But it can't take the place of the Wards/Century 230AC for big stuff).

First, thanks to Dodis for sending me the manual! I've spent hours trying to absorb everything.

Here's my first project with it, one typical for me. I repaired the rusted and cracked seat of a 30 year old tractor I just bought. After welding the upper and lower sides and grinding the upper welds near flush, I wasn't able to crack it again by flexing it with all my weight on it. Hopefully its good for a few more years.

I learned one thing after I finished this project - Dodi's additions to the Century manual include a supplement that clarifies how to wire it for DCEN. Since the prior owner left flux core in it, I assumed he knew more than me and it was set up right. Nope. I completed this project with it wired DCEP, before I went back to the manual one more time and discovered how it should be. Even so, it sure runs nicer than the HF-90. I think I'm going to like this welder.


 
California,

Glad you got it working good! Glad I could help too!

Now I just need to get out to the shop because I still owe BlackDeath a pic of the labels inside the welder. I'll CC you, California, as well and add it to my PDF for future requests. Lot's of family stuff going on keeping me out of the shop lately...

Mike "Dodis"
 
solar/century 2150 90/110 argon

Hello everyone I see you guys are good at working on centery circut boards I have never done any board work. Brought my welder in first time they replaced power cord i didn't think that was the problem seeing as it turned on before i brought it in Problem was, just a light or no spark at the wire. Got the welder home worked once put it away five months and its doing the same thing. Brought it back and now they say its the heatsink 880 217 666 The heat sink is hard to find and the ones I found are 270.00 to 570.00 there is a place that rebuilds the board for 105.00 I was wondering is this something one of you guys could teach me to fix? I already have 100.00 for the power cord and another 50.00 to check it the second time so I would like to try and fix this
My self.
Century 2150 90/110 gas nice welder when it works.
Thank you,
Rob


=dodis;3564531]California,

Glad you got it working good! Glad I could help too!

Now I just need to get out to the shop because I still owe BlackDeath a pic of the labels inside the welder. I'll CC you, California, as well and add it to my PDF for future requests. Lot's of family stuff going on keeping me out of the shop lately...

Mike "Dodis"[/QUOTE]
 
Stonecold1rob,

Don't know how much help I'd be on the circuit board, haven't done much more than re-solder corroded connections on other things. Haven't had to touch my welder's internals. Though I did take a look a while back. Thought my solenoid had gone out, so I was opening it up to check it out (turns out I had the hose pinched behind the tank when I had to move it :blush: )

But I did take the promised pictures inside the door for California and anyone else that may need them. Turns out, there was no amp and wirespeed chart, just a circuit diagram (already in the PDF I send out). I also took pics of the capacitor, in case anyone needs to replace it or is wanting similar for the HF upgrades. And a pics of the 30amp fuse, just FYI.

Mike "Dodis"


 
Just picked up the same welder and it originally had aluminum Mig wire it it.. I have changed it to flux wire but have no manual or application chart to check the polarity or give me any baseline settings.

I'm about 10 years out of the last time I welded anything and that was just a high school autoshop tack weld project so any help to a true newbie would be appreciated. feel free to email me if you have any pictures or pdfs of the charts or manuals. MikeyHaderer(AT)gmail.com
 
Hello dodis, was wondering what welder your pics are from, looks like some of the same parts that are in my Solar 2150 does yours have the heat sink circuit board? I re soldered a resistor on mine. It seems to be working. There are four white and four black wires on my heat sink white on one side black on the other is that the same on yours?

QUOTE=dodis;5664171]Stonecold1rob,
Don't know how much help I'd be on the circuit board, haven't done much more than re-solder corroded connections on other things. Haven't had to touch my welder's internals. Though I did take a look a while back. Thought my solenoid had gone out, so I was opening it up to check it out (turns out I had the hose pinched behind the tank when I had to move it :blush: )

But I did take the promised pictures inside the door for California and anyone else that may need them. Turns out, there was no amp and wirespeed chart, just a circuit diagram (already in the PDF I send out). I also took pics of the capacitor, in case anyone needs to replace it or is wanting similar for the HF upgrades. And a pics of the 30amp fuse, just FYI.

Mike "Dodis"

View attachment 1057581
View attachment 1057591 [/QUOTE]
 
PM me your email address and I'll forward the manual and notes described above, that Dodis sent me a few years ago.

Here's the essence of the manual. The rest of it is generic to any mig welder.

 
My welding work area is 50 ft from the locked storage where I kept the welder, so to make it more portable I put it on this wheeled walker. I should have used one slightly wider. Because I had to force this one slightly wider every time I wanted to open the welder's door.



My most recent project with it was to weld a trailer ball mount on my tractor's loader bucket. The Century worked well for projects like this and the tractor seat repair in a prior post.

 
Just to follow up in the thread, got a PM and replied with the manual to Andrew.

Lately only been getting in to lurk about once a month... Too much work to do.

Mike "Dodis"
 
I no longer have the Century. I got a killer deal on a 240 volt welder so I sold the Century for $150.

See post #33 above. That covers everything unique to the Century 130. Any manual for a similar welder will cover everything else - safety, electrical wiring needed, pictures of good/bad welds, etc.

It really is that simple.
 
Hi, I inherited my grandpa's century 130 mig, but I can't find the manual. I am fairly new to welding and want to make sure I have it set up right I would appreciate it if you could email me the manual @ lucas@ctmorse.com.
Thank you,
Lucas Morse

See my post above, and my post #33 above. Trust me, there's nothing else in the Century 130 manual that is unique to this welder. Any welder manual will cover safety, input power, bead appearance, etc, same as that manual.

A manual for another 110v mig (or flux) transformer-based welder would be the best match.

Note you need a 110v wall outlet providing 30 amps (nobody has that!) and Century's special input cable with the 130 amp plug (unique to that mythical 30 amp outlet) to get the rated 130 amps output of welding current. Realistic welding power running from from a household 110v outlet is same as any other 110v transformer-based welder, 90 amps or maybe a little more.

It uses generic Tweco tips, widely sold.

I liked mine, but after a few years I got an opportunity to buy a lot more gear for less than the $150 I bought/sold my Century for.

I don't miss the weight of that heavy transformer-based welder. After a couple years using a similar, heavy, 240v welder, last month I bought a modern Amico 130a Flux 'mig' welder that is similar to the Century but only 18 lbs, and dual voltage, so it really can do 130 amps when plugged into a 240 v welder outlet.

Here's a review I wrote about my new Amico.

Review: Amico MIG-130A, 130 Amp Flux Wire Welder, 110/230V Dual Voltage. $149 on Amazon.
 
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