So here is the deal guys.. Recently, due to financial issues, im going to have to start work as welder. My dad is a top notch welder and a welding instructor. I welded sparingly about 7 or 8 years ago and recently began going to work with ole dad. Ive been in about two weeks and i have picked it up at an alarming rate. I started out running 7018 on a flat plate with pretty good results and quickly moved to vertical, overhead, etc. My dad only had to demonstrate each process one time . I learned the weave in one day after only being shown once. Ok so now i feel on top of the world, Im a natural right? Well this was until yesterday. Ole dad is outta town till monday and yesterday in the shop i stumbled onto old number 6010. Hmm, I thought to myself, ill look up the ranges for it and see what its like. I was familiar with the rod only because i remembered it being used in info i read about pipe work etc. Well I absolutely hate this Fn rod. I been practicing since yesterday and i can do the whip but i have really hated the rod all around. Spattering , Stinking, Flaming POS IMO. I know the all roots in pipe are basically 6010 and im thinking i do not wanna hafta run this crap all the time. Any advice guys? Seems like someone would have come up with a something better by now to replace it. Hopefully dad can help me out monday but this rod makes me very uneasy and as always i like all the input i can get.
icon636
Welcome to the forum. Yeah 6010 welds alot different than 7018! The whip part was going to be my first suggestion. Don't expect that it will lay nice neat beads like 7018 even if you weld perfectly with it. The biggest advantage is for much cr@p it will burn thru vs 7018. I think once your dad shows you the tricks you won't feel as bad about it. I'm surprised to here you stiching the 6010. I usually don't have that problem except with 7018 if I haven't run it for a while.
Good luck.
Good luck.
6010 is a good rod, and in the right hands, does a very nice job. Yes, it smells a little different because of the Cellulosic (paper) coating on the flux. Flaming? I think that if you are seeing a whole lot of that - especially when you get "Stuck" that the 6010 you are using is old stock and has atmospheric contamination.
It is considered a whip & pause rod, but you can pretty much do whatever you like with it. Only thing with 6010 to get used to, is it being a fast freeze rod.
What are you running for amperage? General rule of thumb is that an electrode of 6010 runs at the same amperage as one size smaller of 7018.
Example 1/8" 6010 = 3/32" 7018 = 85 amps.
5/32" 6010 = 1/8" 7018 = 125 amps.
You get the idea.
Try double checking you amperages. Maybe invest in a new sleeve and see if it makes a difference.
Pictures would go a long way to sorting you out.
Keep practicing.
It is considered a whip & pause rod, but you can pretty much do whatever you like with it. Only thing with 6010 to get used to, is it being a fast freeze rod.
What are you running for amperage? General rule of thumb is that an electrode of 6010 runs at the same amperage as one size smaller of 7018.
Example 1/8" 6010 = 3/32" 7018 = 85 amps.
5/32" 6010 = 1/8" 7018 = 125 amps.
You get the idea.
Try double checking you amperages. Maybe invest in a new sleeve and see if it makes a difference.
Pictures would go a long way to sorting you out.
Keep practicing.
Now you know why 6010 has always been called splatter rod, lol. It has it's uses and for what it is designed for it can't be beat. I prefer 5P+ (6010+++++) over the old 5P (6010). It's a great rod when whatever you are working on has paint, grease, rust, scale etc. on it that can't be cleaned off. Usually after one pass with it you can use the 7018.
There is a HUGE difference in the 5p+. I started out using 5p+ at the hall and had some pipeliner pro at home. I couln't figure out why my welds were so great at the hall and my root passes at home where horrible. I tool home some 5p+ and trouble was over.
I am sure that is not all of your trouble but it will help, expecially if your are doing pipe. If you master the 6010 first, your 7018 will look great. My instructor had me do horizontal, then vertical, then when I thought I would move on to the next step he put me back on horizontal again. Boy, was I pissed. But I later found the reason is that after learning to control the bead vertically, the horizontal impoved drammatically. I am now sold on that idea. Don't give up, everyone can be a "natural" to some extent but it is how you climb that hill in front of you that makes the difference. Many reach a difficult point and give up or stop for a while. Dont do it, keep going. Hood down, rod buring time is priceless.
Bill
I am sure that is not all of your trouble but it will help, expecially if your are doing pipe. If you master the 6010 first, your 7018 will look great. My instructor had me do horizontal, then vertical, then when I thought I would move on to the next step he put me back on horizontal again. Boy, was I pissed. But I later found the reason is that after learning to control the bead vertically, the horizontal impoved drammatically. I am now sold on that idea. Don't give up, everyone can be a "natural" to some extent but it is how you climb that hill in front of you that makes the difference. Many reach a difficult point and give up or stop for a while. Dont do it, keep going. Hood down, rod buring time is priceless.
Bill
Thanks so much guys for your time. Maybe Black Wolf was right when he mentioned bad stock. The rods were in there container and were halfway open.There age is unknown at this point till i get with dad. I was getting a little stick and a cigarette lighter sized flame periodically on the tip. I think i was running a little cold due to inexperience and trying to make it run with better stability. I started on a flat plate as i do with all others and layed down a few stinkers before improving with the whip method. You can bet all i will be running next week is some 6010. I wont stop until im satisfied with this rod in all positions. Regardless of whether i go into pipe, structural etc. this is just one of those main rods that has to be learned whether i like the way it runs or not. I know how everyone likes pics so ill try to get digis of some of the various welding Ive done it my short time. Im also running TIG with the pulse off to try an get a hold on that. Its nice to be able to burn and burn and burn for free using state of the art equipment. Im using it to the fullest extent too believe me. My dads assistant it always asking him " Is that dude STILL back there welding" LOL. I look like a mad man in there going from stick to mig to tig to the cutting bin just trying to get to total combination experience. They are usually turning the lights out on me every afternoon to make me quit. Thanks again for your time
Just to add a little something my first week there the assistant was making his beveled test plate for 7018 bend test and he offered to make me one up and i thought what the hell. I stared at it for like an hour before getting the balls to run the root pass. After i was done filling her up my dad gouged both of our specimens and you guessed it, i passed and he didnt. I went on last week to also pass it vertical up.
Just to add a little something my first week there the assistant was making his beveled test plate for 7018 bend test and he offered to make me one up and i thought what the hell. I stared at it for like an hour before getting the balls to run the root pass. After i was done filling her up my dad gouged both of our specimens and you guessed it, i passed and he didnt. I went on last week to also pass it vertical up.
I believe that most of us, from amateur to professional alike, will be slightly envious of your situation regarding the access to state of the art equipment. Most of us are limited to whatever we have purchased several years ago, and are using to pay the bills.
It does sound though, that you have a very good attitude, and are making the absolute most of the opprotunity, so I am pleased that it is not going to waste.
Keep up the hard work, and your tenacity with the welding should do you well, and make you an honest living.
Welcome to the trade.
It does sound though, that you have a very good attitude, and are making the absolute most of the opprotunity, so I am pleased that it is not going to waste.
Keep up the hard work, and your tenacity with the welding should do you well, and make you an honest living.
Welcome to the trade.
If you think 5P+ is bad you ought to have been around when Fleetweld 5 was all that was available. I'm not that old but it was still avalilable when I started so I tried some of it. It made a good weld but took a lot of rod because at least half of it went on everything around as splatter. Burn your shirt sleeves off before you knew what happened.
Get some new +P and stay after it. There are a lot of places you will like it better than 7018 because it makes the job easier when you learn to run it. I prefer 7018 for everything but there are times when 6010 does a better job.
Get some new +P and stay after it. There are a lot of places you will like it better than 7018 because it makes the job easier when you learn to run it. I prefer 7018 for everything but there are times when 6010 does a better job.
You are lucky to have a father that will teach you.
The 6010 is also known as the grandfather rod of shipping. Many other names,
The proper way to run 6010 is to move forward 1/2 then back 3/8 then repeat ,over and over.
It will look just like a tig weld whan finished.
HOBART makes a POCKET welding guide that tells all info for running different electrodes and lots of other info. ask for POCKET WELDING GUIDE at any book store,published by Hobart bros.
6010 is a deep penetrating rod and is used for root passes. Does not deposit much metal. That is why you use the forward-back technique. The 7018 is an X-ray quality rod with medium penetration and more deposit of metal..
The 6010 is hard on clothing too. Never wear polyester clothes.
The 6010 is also known as the grandfather rod of shipping. Many other names,
The proper way to run 6010 is to move forward 1/2 then back 3/8 then repeat ,over and over.
It will look just like a tig weld whan finished.
HOBART makes a POCKET welding guide that tells all info for running different electrodes and lots of other info. ask for POCKET WELDING GUIDE at any book store,published by Hobart bros.
6010 is a deep penetrating rod and is used for root passes. Does not deposit much metal. That is why you use the forward-back technique. The 7018 is an X-ray quality rod with medium penetration and more deposit of metal..
The 6010 is hard on clothing too. Never wear polyester clothes.
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