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1967 Lincoln SA200 Restoration

3K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  LaneFrost!  
#1 · (Edited)
Have been looking for a SA200 to fix up and make into a reliable machine for a little while. Picked this machine up today for little more than scrap price. The kid I bought it from un stuck the engine and got it to run, currently it will sputter and won't run. Was told that there is oil leaking past the magneto seal into the housing. From what I can tell all the brushes are stuck in the holders , there is only one wire connected to the fine control rheostat.

My goal in the short term is to get the engine to run for a few minutes steady, and see if I can get some weld current from the generator. I have not read through the SA200 sticky yet, guessing there is a diagram in there for the exciter wiring? I am very experienced with mechanical things, my niche is building 4x4s/rockcrawlers and general hot rodding. However this is my first foray into the workings of an old lincoln welder.

Here is the short list of what it needs that I know of now :

Exhaust/Intake manifold rotted
Snapped head bolts
Oil pan may be rotted or leak at drain plug
Magneto - seal and tune up
Radiator needs repaired or replaced
Un seize current selector
Have not investigated the idler setup, looks like it has some sort of electric solenoid in there I am not very knowledgeable on the R57 vs electronic idler components , I will want to convert it to the electronic idler for grinder use
Verify that the exciter is wired correctly , clean up rheostat and ohm it out
Marvel carburetor is supposed to work, PO said he rebuilt it. It is missing the choke lever that attaches to the choke shaft though
Missing the main brush cover

I want to get it to work as far as making weld current and welding, then I will move forward with making it a reliable machine. Planning on pulling engine/generator and splitting them. I will be sandblasting the frame, straightening and reinforcing it. Want to sandblast the exciter cage as it is very corroded and the outside of the generator housing. Have some rust repair on the face plate in bottom corners. So sandblast and repair the frame, sheet metal, then will be painting with some decent urethane single stage. Have some leftover gunmetal grey metallic from my truck I painted that would look real nice.

I will update the thread this week with more pictures and questions I am sure.
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#2 ·
Here are some more pictures, messed with it a little yesterday. So its getting good enough spark, not getting fuel. Got a hold of a brand new take off Zenith carb from a forklift that was converted to propane when new. Going to throw that on there and it should run steady. Was looking into converting the engine to a distributor ignition, anyone done this and how did it work out for you? Also was looking at the frame rails, planning on replacing the rails with C channel of similar dimensions. The welder came off of a farm where it was welded to a mobile home axle just rear of center on the frame, and a tongue welded to it at the battery tray. So the rails are pretty bent up, will come out cleaner and nicer if I re-rail it.

Maybe this weekend I will get some time to see if I can get a weld out of the old girl. Looks like I can bypass the rheostat for fine control by running the wire from the exciter output straight to the field on the generator. So will do that and get all brushes cleaned up and sand the commutators. I think it will make some juice.

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#3 · (Edited)
You need to clean the armature. As for the carb. you need the right one as well as a new manifold. It should be OK just to get it running. Before you get too far see how it runs. As for the frame rails, they don't look too bad but I bet you could find a good used frame from Stumpfs or another SA200 specialist like Bill's Welder Repair. Nothing wrong with a mag. ignition. As long as it's running you don't need a battery. Interesting with all the rust you can clearly see Lincoln and a part number on what I think are the brushes.
 
#4 · (Edited)
#5 ·
Chances are another machine with a GOOD frame is a better machine to start with.
I got a bud finds that concept strange, always looking for a better body to put on a rotted worn out truck. Hard to grasp that the whole truck may be better. Last 2 SA I bought, were 700 one had lot of big lead and they run and weld. Had to service idlers on them but they worked and 1 didn't even need oil change
 
#7 ·
I've restored worse.

Lost count of how many battery boxes I've replaced. Any metal fab shop can knock out replacement side rails, battery box pieces etc. Bottom of control panel needs a little TLC.
 
#10 ·
I can agree with Mr Duane about the Magnetos if they have all the original Fairbanks Morse parts in them in good working condition. But, In my experience so far, I've had reliability issues with new NON- Fairbanks Morse coils and the points and condensers not working past 6-8 hours without loosing spark. I ended up converting to the pertronix distributor and have had zero issues with the machine running 10-12 hour days for months now. Now don't get me wrong, I still like the Magnetos, but these aftermarket parts are not holding up like the OEM stuff does. As a matter of fact I've been looking for NOS mag parts and they are getting hard to find.
 
#14 ·
Around here there is obvious down pressure on what these are selling for, running. The questionable ones are just a little less. Strange but true. The typical refurbish will cost about 800.00 for normal parts like water pump, radiator, small this and that, etc and getting underwater is easy to do on a neglected machine if you pay over 1k for them.

Regarding magnetos: my 1957 had been sitting at least 6 yrs and of all the things I had to do to get it welding - cleaning commutators, brush racks, fixing wires, polishing corroded copper surfaces, radiator, water pump, etc the magneto has been totally reliable right from the beginning and I did zero to it other than look at (but not touch) the contacts.
Everywhere they said "upgrade" to a distributor, alternator, electronic idler and whatever the latest greatest doohicky was.

Not an expert, but from what I have read a mag has to be pretty effed up not to respond to a simple touch up.