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That sounds like such a risk for a company. You now someone is going to do just that. I can see the lawsuit now.
That actually sounds moronic to me. There are no pigtails that are designed like that in the industry that I know of, it is standard to have the NEMA 6-50P on the machine cord and use a pigtail that goes from NEMA 50-6R -> NEMA 5-15P, if that is done a standard extension can be used also.

Even so, that doesn't really make sense as most welders will not run very well on a 15 amp 120v circuit, but that is commonly used for 20 amps as well, I guess you could use it on 30 amp 120v circuits, but those are pretty rare for most homes.

Perhaps, but I like it this way. I can get a standard 10 ga extension cord and use it with my 25' 8 ga 220v extension cord for some more length or I can use it on a standard 110v outlet.
But you could use a standard extension if you had an industry standard pigtail also, so I don't get it. :confused:
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
That actually sounds moronic to me. There are no pigtails that are designed like that in the industry that I know of, it is standard to have the NEMA 6-50P on the machine cord and use a pigtail that goes from NEMA 50-6R -> NEMA 5-15P, if that is done a standard extension can be used also.

Even so, that doesn't really make sense as most welders will not run very well on a 15 amp 120v circuit, but that is commonly used for 20 amps as well, I guess you could use it on 30 amp 120v circuits, but those are pretty rare for most homes.


But you could use a standard extension if you had an industry standard pigtail also, so I don't get it. :confused:
I guess I'm missing something. I can plug the Yeswelder adapter into my NEMA-50R outlet and use a NEMA 5-15 extension cord to run 220v to the welder.
How would I run 220v to the welder using a NEMA 5-15 extension cord and an industry standard pigtail?
 
I guess I'm missing something. I can plug the Yeswelder adapter into my NEMA-50R outlet and use a NEMA 5-15 extension cord to run 220v to the welder.
How would I run 220v to the welder using a NEMA 5-15 extension cord and an industry standard pigtail?
Maybe I'm misunderstand you then, if so my bad. I thought you were saying the welder had a 120v plug on it and that it had a pigtail with a 120v receptacle to a standard NEMA 50-6P so it could plug into a welding circuit. If so, this is absolutely moronic as that pigtail is not common in the industry and doesn't seem to make sense as the wire gauge is more likely smaller for the 120v plug, but maybe it uses large wire. None the less, you will always have a lower powered plug in the middle of the entire length.

On the more common pigtail you will always have the lower amperage on the 120v pigtail side, if I understand the Yeswelder adapter correctly you will always have 240v going through the 120v plug..
 
That is correct (unless you plug it into a 120v outlet).
But here's the bigger worry. 120v extension cords are common in small sizes only good for 15 amps. Seems very easy for someone to say, "Hey, I need to get my welder over to there, I'll just plug it into this extension I have!", and then plug that into the pigtail and into a 240v circuit. Just something to be aware of. :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
But here's the bigger worry. 120v extension cords are common in small sizes only good for 15 amps. Seems very easy for someone to say, "Hey, I need to get my welder over to there, I'll just plug it into this extension I have!", and then plug that into the pigtail and into a 240v circuit. Just something to be aware of. :rolleyes:
Yep, it will take a little common sense. Sort of like using a small extension cord for a large power tool on a 20 amp circuit.
I haven' tried it yet because the largest 120v extension cord I have is 12 AWG. But I may pick up a 10 AWG extension cord some day.
It isn't that bad when you think about it. The max current the welder draws is 32 amps. Averaged over the 60% duty cycle is about 20 amps. A good extension cord laying in open air should be able to dissipate the heat and not cause much of a voltage drop.
 
Discussion starter · #51 · (Edited)
Well the tig function works very well for being lift tig. But I wont be trying spool gun welding on this thing unless someone comes up with a guide or something. This is the first machine I've ever personally owned.
I didn't mean using a spool gun (although that would be interesting also). Many MIG welders can weld aluminum with a Teflon liner and a U groove drive roll. My concern is being able to input the correct settings for aluminum (there is no direct wire feed control).
Good to hear about the TIG function, I may order the TIG torch if I decide I want to learn TIG.
This is my first machine also (sort of, I also have a trail welder).
 
Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
Just thought I'd report back on a few things.
First, DO NOT remove the wire roll spindle unless you want to see the inside of the machine. I was annoyed with the wire roll retaining nut not being captive in the retainer so I thought I'd put a dab of glue in it to hold it in. The bolt was loose in the spindle so, being anal, I thought I'd do the same thing to it. I removed the 4 screws holding the spindle on but the nuts weren't attached so they fell inside the machine. I had to remove the cover to reinstall the spindle.
The wire drive mechanism appears to be the same (or a reasonable clone) as one used on some of the 120v Lincoln welders (i.e., Pro Mig 140, Easy Mig 140, etc.).
 
... The bolt was loose in the spindle so, being anal, I thought I'd do the same thing to it. I removed the 4 screws holding the spindle on but the nuts weren't attached so they fell inside the machine. I had to remove the cover to reinstall the spindle.
Sounds like legendary older stuff from Harbor Freight - 'Some Assembly Required'.

Back in the day that meant take apart and reassemble the object the way it should have been in the first place.
 
I picked up the MIG-205DS off Amazon and it was delivered today. This is the first mig machine I've ever had, only used a HF FCAW before. I don't plan on doing any aluminum so can't really help you out RKCRLR on that I'm afraid. I only have a 30amp 120v circuit to run it with for now (RV hookup) but will eventually run a 240V leg to the garage for it.

I can see a bit of a learning curve ahead of me - ran a bunch of wire to try it out and make sure it functioned and it sure is more sensitive than the old one.
 
I picked up the MIG-205DS off Amazon and it was delivered today. ...only used a HF FCAW before... ran a bunch of wire and it sure is more sensitive than the old one.
Which HF, and 'sensitive' how? Better? More/less power? Flux or gas? And what do you think of quality compared to HF, similar?
 
I think shootr has the flux125 HF...
If HF's Flux 125 (90A AC @ 17V and just two voltage settings) is like their previous AC flux welders then almost anything will be better. My experience with their blue AC 'MIG100' was mostly frustration.

This MIG-205DS should be worlds better.
 
Which HF, and 'sensitive' how? Better? More/less power? Flux or gas? And what do you think of quality compared to HF, similar?
Yeah, the 125HF - it was baaaaasic! The Yeswelder will set wire speed and voltage if I dial in the amp value as recommended on their charts. The charts don't seem to accurate from first blush.

It will also let you set amps, wire speed, voltage, and inductance all independently to tweak it to more exacting standards.

Waaaay more powerful, on the 30amp 120v circuit it was reaching 136amps. I know I'm going to love this thing since I can see all the values, not just HI or LOW, and a wire speed knob with no correlation to IPM. With that ability, it might be a long process but I will be able to develop a cheat sheet over time as to best settings for different materials and situations.

I've only used 0.030 wire with C25 gas so far. I have a good feeling this model/manufacturer is an anomoly - more bang for the buck than anyone could have predicted.

Little things like the single knob to change settings: the quicker you spin it the quicker it jumps in value. In other words I'm not turning endlessly to get from one end of the spectrum to the other. If I turn it slow it creeps up/down. If I turn it faster it changes the value exponentially quicker.

About the only chintzy thing I see is the ground clamp is a little flimsy.
 
Yeah, the 125HF - it was baaaaasic! The Yeswelder will set wire speed and voltage if I dial in the amp value as recommended on their charts. The charts don't seem to accurate from first blush.

It will also let you set amps, wire speed, voltage, and inductance all independently to tweak it to more exacting standards.

Waaaay more powerful, on the 30amp 120v circuit it was reaching 136amps. I know I'm going to love this thing since I can see all the values, not just HI or LOW, and a wire speed knob with no correlation to IPM. With that ability, it might be a long process but I will be able to develop a cheat sheet over time as to best settings for different materials and situations.

I've only used 0.030 wire with C25 gas so far. I have a good feeling this model/manufacturer is an anomoly - more bang for the buck than anyone could have predicted.

Little things like the single knob to change settings: the quicker you spin it the quicker it jumps in value. In other words I'm not turning endlessly to get from one end of the spectrum to the other. If I turn it slow it creeps up/down. If I turn it faster it changes the value exponentially quicker.

About the only chintzy thing I see is the ground clamp is a little flimsy.
Yeah, even the last couple of miller 211's I got have had really bad ground clamp setups!!! a few years back they were bad but now it's even worse :eek:
 
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