Update. I'm concerned with the resistance reading across the slip rings. Getting a 4.6 between the rings. I read they needed to be around the 12 mark. Help!

 

I'm pretty sure spec is 5-6. Mine is at 5.2.

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Thanks njs that make we feel a lot better about it

 

I tried flashing the field today and I don't think it did a dang thing. Still had partial voltage at the plugs. What am I flashing and what holds the current?? Starting to get lost on my diagnosing

 

What kind of voltage at the receptacles? 2-3 volts, 50-60 volts or something else?

If the flashing diode is failed open the next item you need to check is the Field Rectifier D2 for one or more open/shorted diodes. If you're unsure how to test a full wave bridge rectifier, there are a number of YouTube videos that walk you thru it.

Did you check the Fine Current Adjustment rheostat R4 for an open winding?

 

Voltage at the 110 plugs are running around 65 - 70. How do I check the fine tuning rheostat for open windings? Can I check the diodes with an ohm meter or do I need to pick up a new meter with diode checking function? Thank you Duane!

 

You need to use the diode test function on a multimeter. Continuity setting won't work.

Are those numbers at hight idle? Fine adjustment need to be at 10 when measuring the AC output.

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That was at high idle and fine adjustment was at 10. Picking up a diode tester tomorrow.

 

Your voltage reading sounds like you've got a bad field rectifier. I'd say one of its four diodes are shorted closed. This usually results in blowing the flashing diode, results in low field exciter voltage and therefore low output voltage.

 

Thank you. Will be testing soon when the rain stops. Any idea where I can purchase the diodes and the exciter diode?

 

Pretty much any electronics supply.

Mouser, Digikey, Ralph's and Newark to name a few. Even some Radio Shacks.

The flashing diode would likely be rated for 600-1000V and 3-6A and the bridge rectifier the same voltage rating range and 40A is typical.

 

Awesome! Thank you so much.

 

Did some checking today. Exciter is bad. Current running both directions. Did find a bad diode in a 3 way soldered L shaped assembly. What is this and what does it do?

 

 

Your photo is of the two resistors and capacitor that make up the weld output suppressor that protects the unit from HF if/when a HF arc starter generator is used for TIG. It's shown as PCB2 in the unit wiring diagram.

 

I was hoping I found a problem

 

Have we discussed high idle speed yet? Low engine speed on high idle will result in low output voltage.

If you don't have a tachometer, pick up one of these for $20 -

- at Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight or online and use the Hz function as a tachometer. No-load high idle speed should yield 62-62.5 Hz.

 

I will be getting one this week. Thought for sure I would find a bad diode on the rectifier.

 

You could also get a photo tach if you dont mind spending a little extra money.

http://www.harborfreight.com/digita...er-66632.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided&utm_referrer=direct/not provided

It worked pretty good for me.

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That's nice. Gonna take a look at them ��

 

Just recapping. I have established that the flashing diode is bad, rectifier diodes are good, still need to set low and high idle, slip rings and brushes are clean and free flowing, not sure how to check and clean the rheostat. What are the correct readings at all the outputs on certain settings? Is there anything else I can check while waiting on parts or metering devises? The welder is at my land now so I will only be able to work on it over the weekends. I want to make sure I am able to check the most I can for the short period of time that I have with it. Thanks so much! You guys are awesome!

 

[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=u4MomkQ-Z5U[/video]

 

Can't get it to open wide enough to set high rpm

 

What do you mean by that? Right there at the end it seemed like it wanted to go to high idle.

 

I hit the starter and not the kill switch. When you kill it the paddle opens all the way

 

What about when you flip the high idle switch from auto to high? From what I can see it is operating normally. It will stay at low idle until a welding or AC load is applied, or the idle control is manually disengaged.

Can you take a video of startup plus the first 30 or so seconds of it running?

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