I've used masterpro automotive paint stripper. From orreilys auto parts. It will make. quick work of the paint. Nasty stuff. Use proper gloves and ventilation
It burns skin in contact.

 

But that will strip all the paint off, correct?

We are just trying to remove the top spray paint . Hoping to save the original paint underneath.

 

I've used thinner to remove over-spray before, but I don't know it it would be effective with fully painted rattle can?

I'd sure give it a try though if it were mine. Basically just spray on and rub with cotton rag until it works.

 

yeah looks like gonna be a lot of elbow grease

 

Depends on what kind of paint was in the rattle can and if the thief failed to prepare the original paint by sanding. There's a chance that acetone will soften the cheap paint and leave the underlying two-part automotive paint with little damage. Try acetone on a small area, but you'll probably have to place an acetone soaked cotton rag over that area and cover that with a sheet of acetone resistant plastic to keep it from evaporating quickly.

******* thieves!

 

I'll give the acetone a shot.

 

You may want to also try mineral spirits. It may or may not work but it is a bit more tamer than acetone.

 

Try lacquer thinner, a little milder than acetone and hotter than mineral spirits, an automotive painter may give you some suggestions too.

 

+1
Lacquer thinner IMO is stronger than acetone and it is what I think you should try. Lots of paper towels and start wiping it away.

Oh shoot. I was a little late eh ?

 

It depends on what the rattle can paint was and what is under it, - the original paint. One old trick that used to remove alkyd enamel lettering paint was easy-off oven cleaner. Haven't used it in years but worked well back in the day. Always test what ever your using first.

 

Ed
Most rattle can paints are either lacquer based or if an enamel- it will be a Non-activated enamel (no catalyst hardener in it). Instead of using acetone or lacquer thinner (which is normally 'too hot' of a solvent) get some Automotive reducer that is used to thin down modern Urethane paints. Pick a small spot- put some on a rag and rub and see if the rattle can paint will start to come off. I would try it on the fender since that is the smallest item that was painted the air filter cover is probably plastic and you don't want to potentially damage the plastic with a solvent. The easy off is An OLD time trick- alkyd paints are pretty much passe' unless we are talking a tractor type of paint typically applied with a brush. Easy Off is basically lye. Don't even think about paint stripper that will take it ALL off- the rattle can AND the original paint. The sooner this can be done the better as un-activated paints cure by evaporation of solvents- and dry top down so good chance once you soften the top layer you will be able to remove the un-cured paint underneath. It will be a lot of elbow grease but most likely they only put one maybe two coats on. HTH

 

Thanks all for the suggestions.

 

If the reducer does not work- One other way would be to wet sand the rattle can paint with Very Fine Sand paper- talking 1000 grit or finer and sand until the sanding residue is no longer black and turns 'white' at that point you would be sanding the factory applied clear coat- once all of that was removed you would then buff it out-I am assuming there is no pin stripping or graphics that would need to be saved as often that stuff is laid on top of the clear coat. Some pics would help.

 

I'll grab some pics tonight.

 

I would try denatured alcohol first. If the paint hadn't been on real long that should work. Acetone would be what I would try if the denatured doesn't cut it.

 

"tractor paint typically applied with a brush" I gotta remember that one:laugh: Next time I hear someone pontificating on a subject using broad brush strokes...……………………..

Good ol' Van Sickle alkyd enamel, but no brush

I don't bother with the available hardener, and use a super slow solvent...……..bein' as my booth is under the big blue sky. Hardener is just plain stupid for something that's actually used. Chips all to Hell.

I gar-on-f'n-teeee that ol' thing's gonna be rust free long after some fancy azz paint job with automotive paint.

But Hell...……...whada I know...…….I'm just some ol' coot in a flyover state

 

"tractor paint typically applied with a brush" I gotta remember that one:laugh: Next time I hear someone pontificating on a subject using broad brush strokes...……………………..

"Topside enamel applied with a mop" :laugh:

 

My bad. Yes it will.

How about buffing compound and wheel on a electric drill. I know it cuts through lacquer.

 

If it's cheap rattle can spray paint, Gasoline with take it off and not hurt the original paint/clear coat.

may have to use a lil elbow grease.

 

"tractor paint typically applied with a brush" I gotta remember that one

Glad you liked that! and no insult intended, but your picture proves my point even though you didn't use a brush as to where it is typically used-farms, heavy equipment, industrial things like railings etc, that is a GOOD application for alkyd paint- it is long lasting and durable, the trade off is over time it fades and chalks. Car makers went to other types of paints to retain the gloss because people don't like to wax etc to keep a car looking good. As they say different strokes for different folks.

 

No biggy. I get my undies in a bunch when I hear "farmer" stories. Sometimes I overreact.

 

google is your friend....
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ps://www.wikihow.com/Get-Spray-Paint-off-a-Car&usg=AOvVaw28LqkAErQW3kLsGROsO6gK

 

Medium reducer !!! Then reclear or wax

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

Drive it 60 mph, it will probably blow off.

 

I know a couple people who's cars got tagged and the paint shop was able to remove it all, don't know how but I always figured they buffed it off. Maybe they used gasoline like John T says

 

Acetone seems to be doing the job.

 

Lots more to go.

 

Gotta get it back to this

 

Nice job - love the color