Make sure the foot pedal is disconnected and you have selected the proper welding mode. Use DC electrode positive and 80 amps. Make sure you have a good ground to bright shiny metal.

 

Thanks. Pedal was not disconnected for sure and i was on stick. Will try the rest.

 

Well, one new thing that i learned is if you stick the rod on primeweld 325 it just keeps pumping current through it and the flux catches on fire.

 

I want 95A.

 

3/32 6010 is hard. The arc is way more aggressive than 1/8 in my opinion and it goes fast. Try 40-45 amps and go up as you get the feel.

I'm no pipe welder...

 

I think that looks great. What was your process and how many passes. Hopefully you know welding galvi gives iff very toxic fumes. At least that is my understanding

 

As mentioned in your last post, I replied with some suggestion on rod choices. The Murex 6011 runs really well on my inverters (Primeweld 180 and 225 ac/dc Lincoln 210mp Miller maxstar150), as well as low OCV transformers. There are some 6011's that don't like certain inverters, don't know why.

Have you ever run 6010 before ? It can be difficult with a machine made to run it. My son's welding class starts them with 1/8" 6010 @ 80ish amps, and 3/32" 7018 @95 amps in DCEP on 1/4" plate . They started off by striking an arc and making a round spot weld in a grid of 8 x 8 dots. Once they were able to strike an arc and make a puddle reliably they advanced to padding the plate in between the dots. This is all in the flat position. Next week they move to the vertical.

I highly recommend using the 1/8" 6010 for learning, its just a little bit easier than the thinner rod.

My Primeweld 225 ac/dc runs 6010 but its very difficult, must hold a really tight arc, it still sticks, and or arc goes out unexpectedly. If you don't want to buy the 50lb box of Murex , Fleetweld 180 is probably the next best choice. I haven't tried the Hobart 6011 from tractor supply yet on the Primeweld yet.


good luck

 

Thank you all for replies. Will try to respond to your comments in this post in no particular order.
1. This is my first go at 6010. Total newbie, just learning.
2. Lincoln 6011 fleetweld 180 1/8" should be arriving today; the 5P 3/32 arrived first. Both from ebay. 5P was open box Fleetweld 180 is sealed.

Was basically trying to figure out if i am just doing something wrong. Or perhaps Primewelld 325 not meant for 6010. Later today will try Primeweld 325 on 220V and will see if there is a difference. On 110 it puts out up to 120A, so i figured should not matter for 80A rod, but who knows...

 

Tried Primeweld 325 at the same 80A setting running 3/32 5P but on 220V. Still get the rod stuck, but now less so. It feels like on 220V i have a fighting chance. On 110V the rod would stick essentially instantly, on 220V it feels like i might have a 1/10th of a second to pull it back and long arc it before settling into a puddle. Still cooking stuck rods. Not sure if there is a setting i am missing, but primeweld does not have short circuit detect to cut current.

 

This is making me curious about how my Primeweld will do with 6010 or 6011. I haven’t even put the electrode holder on it, I may try to play around with it tonight and see how it goes. I run very little 6010, but go through a couple hundred pounds of the Murex 6011 a year. It’s great for old corrals and rusty fence.

 

I found that once i get the arc going it works well on 110 or 220. Starting the arc is the PITA part. I am also frustrated that it does not do stuck electrode detect. The cheapie $70 stick welder i got from Amazon does it... If you find a stuck rod setting, i may have missed, please let me know. So far the 325 excels at toasting stuck rods. They catch on fire after like 3 seconds... And ripping the clamp off the electrode arcs the electrode holder necessitating eventually having to clean it.

 

Do you have ARC FORCE? If you do turn it up to the max. I think 6010 catching fire is normal but Im an amatuer weldor.

A pipe weldor told me to turn ARC FORCE to max and HOT START off for 6010 and use opposite settings for 7018. The 7018 likes HOT START.

 

The Arc Force appears to have helped, but now i am blowing holes through thinner steel. Need to practice...

 

I'm new to welder as well but from everything I have read smaller inverter machines and even bigger more expensive ones wont run 6010. Definitely go with 6011 but ive tried the fleetweld and wasn't impressed. The best 6011 3/32 ive found is Kiswel and esab firepower line.

I am curious about you running on 120v correct? Does it trip the breaker a lot? My machine is capable of doing 120v but I haven't tried. It sure would be a lot easier to use 120v on a job site for small tacking jobs and not have to worry about getting 220 and hundreds of feet of lead.

 

Does your welder have a hot start feature? I checked the manual but didn't see mention of it. If it does, that will help a LOT more than the arc force.

 

Interesting, I just looked again and the manual doesn't mention hot start OR arc force, but when I look at the pictures of the control panel I clearly see knobs for both settings. Don't go crazy on the arc force. That makes the arc much more digging and of course you will blow through thinner material. Hot start on the other hand is exactly what you need for rods that stick when striking an arc. I personally would set the arc force low (or on the lower side), set the amps for 80 on the 3/32 5P rods, and turn the hot start dial up to 1/3rd. Gradually increase the hot start until you get the results you like. Once you regularly get the rod lit the way you like, you may need to go down on the amps.

Arc force is really useful when you need a digging arc, like when you are trying to key hole an open gap weld. But for general welding stuff, you may not need it.

 

Given very limited testing i've done so far, it feels like arc force had bigger impact on reducing rods sticking and going to 220V, even though still in amp range accessible to 120V gave me a fighting chance.
To answer the question above regarding 120V. I have it on 25A circuit and it does not blow it.

 

yeah hot start boosts the initial amps for a short period of time then it falls back to the amp settings on your main dial

 

Some machines has adjustable hot start times also.Nice feature too..The little Primeweld 145 has a real nice working 120 volt stick mode.. High OCV help start 6010 rods.. At least machines with it does well for the most part..70 + OCV

 

I was looking at the Primeweld 145 or Esab Rogue 180 as a mobile 120V stick welder. My Amazon $70 welder works with 6013, does not work with 6010, TBD 6011, but not having high hopes.