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Ron_J

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
First off, I hate our search function. I can never find what I'm looking for, as I'm sure this has come up before.

I'm considering getting a plasma cutter, but not sure what to look for. I'm just a weekend warrior, so whatever I get will probably spend most of it's time sitting idle.

I see this being used to cut mostly thinner stuff (16ga or so), but occasionally as thick as 1/8". What do I need to look for as far as power or any other specifics.

Any recommendations would be appreciated also. I know you get what you pay for, but cost is a factor.
 
Do you have a good air compressor? Because if not, that is part of your investment. Most smaller plasma units need 4-7 SCFM at 80-100 psi, to operate effectively. A lot of portable compressors are over rated and won't effectively run a plasma. Or won't run it very long.
 
A couple of thoughts for you:

1. You can cut metal that thin with an ordinary jig saw, or circular saw.
2. Hypertherm and Thermal Dynamics are the "Cadillac" plasma cutters IMO. If I was spending the money this is the way I would go.
3. Lots of people swear by the cheaper chinese units, but some of those don't do "drag" cutting, meaning you have to stand the torch off from the metal being cut. Primeweld and Amico seem to be popular low end machines.
 
Do you have a good air compressor? Because if not, that is part of your investment. Most smaller plasma units need 4-7 SCFM at 80-100 psi, to operate effectively. A lot of portable compressors are over rated and won't effectively run a plasma. Or won't run it very long.
Air... and very clean, dry air.... filtered and dry before it hits the filter on the machine.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Do you have a good air compressor? Because if not, that is part of your investment. Most smaller plasma units need 4-7 SCFM at 80-100 psi, to operate effectively. A lot of portable compressors are over rated and won't effectively run a plasma. Or won't run it very long.
Yes, I do have a compressor that will work.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
A couple of thoughts for you:

1. You can cut metal that thin with an ordinary jig saw, or circular saw.
2. Hypertherm and Thermal Dynamics are the "Cadillac" plasma cutters IMO. If I was spending the money this is the way I would go.
3. Lots of people swear by the cheaper chinese units, but some of those don't do "drag" cutting, meaning you have to stand the torch off from the metal being cut. Primeweld and Amico seem to be popular low end machines.
Thanks. I do most of my cutting now with a cutoff wheel and jigsaw, but I'd like to add plasma to my arsenal.

What about amps? When they claim to cut 1/4", do they do it affectively?
 
How neat does your cutting need to be? If you expect it to be clean and ready to weld, you may be further ahead with a cutting disk as Louie suggested. Getting clean cuts from a plasma depend on both the quality of the machine, and much like O/A cutting, your skill level. I've played around with my cheap Chinese plasma occasionally for a couple yrs now, but I can't say my cut quality is really great. Mostly I use it to remove larger pieces from scrap so I can bring it in the shop and prep it properly. Grinding my crude cuts smooth would often take as much grinding as just cutting it with a zip disk on thinner pieces of metal.
 
Thanks. I do most of my cutting now with a cutoff wheel and jigsaw, but I'd like to add plasma to my arsenal.

What about amps? When they claim to cut 1/4", do they do it affectively?
That unfortunately seems to vary machine to machine. For the lower cost units I would say look at a minimum of 50 amps @ 240 v and you should be good (assuming you have access to 50 amps @240 v). Most of those will say clean cut at 3/8 to 1/2" so at a 1/4" you'll be fine. Search out Brand X's posts ... he's probably tested as many low cost machines as anyone on here. Clean air and quality consumables will make a big difference on a machine's performance. Pilot arc is a nice feature to have, but not a deal breaker in my opinion.
 
How neat does your cutting need to be? If you expect it to be clean and ready to weld, you may be further ahead with a cutting disk as Louie suggested. Getting clean cuts from a plasma depend on both the quality of the machine, and much like O/A cutting, your skill level. I've played around with my cheap Chinese plasma occasionally for a couple yrs now, but I can't say my cut quality is really great. Mostly I use it to remove larger pieces from scrap so I can bring it in the shop and prep it properly. Grinding my crude cuts smooth would often take as much grinding as just cutting it with a zip disk on thinner pieces of metal.
Just to add to this, because air is 79% nitrogen, plasma cutting deposits nitrides in the edges of the metal where you cut with a plasma. This can have the effect of hardening the metal and interfering with the welding process. A lot of folks recommend that you should remove this nitride layer before welding. So the plasma cut steel normally shouldn't go right from cutting to welding

https://www.thefabricator.com/thefa...icle/plasmacutting/how-metal-fabricators-can-achieve-plasma-cut-edge-perfection
 
If 1/8th inch is really your max, I think any cutter 25 amps and up would work. I would look for a decent 40 amp drag unit like the Hypertherm 30XP or the Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 42. But then again I like high end stuff. Buy once, cry once. What are you actually cutting? Lots of straight edges or lots of intricate patterns? If all you are doing is cutting straight cuts, I would look at this saw instead: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/6370-20
 
As for the search function, others have said to type Welding Web and your question into Google and you'll probably get where you want to be faster.

I think we're giving you the same answer... 40 amps in a quality machine, 50 in a cheapy... probably a little overkill but better than being disappointed.
 
Thanks. I do most of my cutting now with a cutoff wheel and jigsaw, but I'd like to add plasma to my arsenal.

What about amps? When they claim to cut 1/4", do they do it affectively?
It's just like anything else. The lesser the unit costs, the less likely it will live up to specs or give as nice of a cut right out-of-the-box. Like Louie said, you might have stand-off issues, and/or consumable issues, air moisture issues, HF-start issues, who knows. A $250 50A plasma cutter would be nowhere near the ability of a $2k 50A plasma cutter. Heck a Hypertherm Powermax 30xp with only 30A is likely better than all of the cheapie 50A plasma cutters floating around. I used to run an Eastwood versacut-40, and it was ok, but consumable life was terrible without clean dry air, and sometimes I disliked the HF-start. Of course now a days I run quality units from HTP/Stel and they are nothing short of spectacular.
 
Curious.... what was your issue with the HF start?
 
Curious.... what was your issue with the HF start?
It was randomly unreliable for starting the plasma arc, even on perfectly clean steel with 100% millscale removed. I at times had to touch the nozzle on the edge (at a slight angle) to get the arc to start so it would foul up the nozzle faster than I had liked, and at times, created undesirable start-shapes to the cut.
 
30xp is a great home machine. it cuts through 3/8 and 1/2 no problem although if i were cutting 1/2 all the time i would get the 45xp. even 3/4 it will cut but you have to slow down quit a bit (as expected). but for once in a while it will handle 3/4. the only negative i would say about the 30xp is it doesnt use quick connects which isnt a big deal if you keep it on a cart but i keep mine in the storage box tucked away under the table. not having quick connects makes it a bit more cumbersome taking it in and out of the storage box but i dont use the machine that much so its not the end of the world in that regard. if you dont mind not having the quick connects then 30xp is great for home use
 
It gets back to my question on what you expect for cut quality. When I look at what comes off the plasma tables of PSA or even Courtjester's homebuilts, does my $300 hand held cut look like that? Nope. Probably wouldn't if I had the $4k unit either. That cut has the amperage, air pressure, height and speed all determined by a computer and my shaky old hand isn't going to do the same job. Skill level is going to be a factor and if that's what you expect from yourself with only occasional use, you'll probably be disappointed. The machine I wanted was $4k... the machine I got was $300 because it was only for occasional use. It may not do the same quality job but it does the job I need done and it sure has saved me a pile of money on O/A.
 
High freq arc start has zero to do with if a machine will start on rusty metal .Also Real machines still use them in 100/200 amp units.. Tends to be the most reliable starting system for CNC machine when used for production cutting..

16ga/1/8 very little to be gained over a cheap import or high quality USA built unit in cut quality. If you can pull the torch smoothly that is. If you don't want to spend $1500 on a USA unit new, than maybe a low cost import makes way more sense.. It sure does not take long to get your money back on the on the cheap units.
 
I don’t think there is a better unit for the money that performs very well, as the PrimeWeld Cut 60. I have one, and am extremely happy with it!
 
OP,
Are you plasma cutting dimensional pieces, or will it be more artistic? Are you doing it all by freehand, or will you have forms or shapes to trace?
The reason I ask is that the quality of the cut will vary widely based on your torch height and consistent travel speed.
I had a Miller 625 plasma cutter that I used by hand a lot for both dimensional and artistic pieces. I sold that one and ended up with a Thermal Dynamics 51. That machine is very nice as well and seemed to have a narrower kerf.
I still have the TD51 and now also have a Hypertherm 65 that came with my plasma table. The Hypertherm is a great unit but is probably beyond what you need.

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