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Miller AEAD-200LE Troubles

2.5K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  Poleframer  
#1 ·
Long time lurker, first time poster. This forum has helped me diagnose several issues over the years, but finally have one that has me stumped and need some assistance. The owners manual from Miller doesn't provide me with enough information to diagnose and my search has brought up different potential issues; although none were quite the same as what I'm experiencing.

Background: I picked up a Miller AEAD-200LE about 6 years ago to use around the house on various projects; most of the time it sits in the garage awaiting the next welding project or power outage. Serial Number JD702043, approximately 1984 vintage. When I first got it, it ran rough and I bypassed the original fuel pump with a 12v unit wired into the ignition system. The engine has ran perfectly and welded beautifully after that; never had an issue with the idle switch or ability to draw a bead with 6011, 6013 or 7018 rod.

We've had a few long term power outages the past year or two, so after reading through the manual, I did the 240V plug swap per sections 4-3 and 4-4 so I could tie it into the house transfer switch and run the well pump if necessary. After doing the plug swap, everything still ran fine until this past week. Unit has sat in a heated garage for about 4 months since the last run / weld.

Pulled the unit out and set it for welding, with the auto idle switch activated. Immediately upon striking or scratching the rod, the unit will increase engine speed from low to high / welding (3000 RPM) and stay there. Can't draw a bead or maintain an arc and it won't return to idle until I manually switch from weld to power mode, then it'll drop down to 1800 rpm and lope along. Tried swapping leads with a spare set, as well as different electrodes; no change.

Used a Fluke 77 multimeter to test the output voltages of the AC & DC weld terminals, as well as the power outlet(s).

In weld mode, I get the following readings:
AC plugs - 12.15V AC, DC plugs - 5.65V DC, 109VAC in accessory plug, 17VAC at the 240V plug (measured hot to neutral)

In power mode, I get the following:
AC plugs - 7.18V AC, DC plugs - 4.82V DC, 109VAC in accessory plug, 142VAC at the 240V plug (measured hot to hot, should be ~240), 71VAC at the 240 plug (hot to neutral, should be ~120).

I've tried to "re-excite" the system by increasing the RPM while in weld mode, no change in the above readings. Also pulled the side cover and looked at the brushes and connections. No obvious signs of corrosion on the connections (pulled each individually and cleaned just in case), no signs of burnt components or traces on either board. Have yet to scratch through the board coatings to get to the components for detailed testing.

Based on the readings at the 240V plug, I'm leaning towards a winding going out. However, based on the threads I've read so far, components on the PC1 board could be bad leading to erratic readings.

I believe my next step is to pull the boards out and start chasing the traces & components, but figured I'd check with others first to see if there's something else I should check first.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
I don't know much about electronics but know of a few common things to check. Test the rheostat, they should be turned to the highest setting while used as a generator and if it wasn't could have been damaged. Check connections on the voltage regulator and make sure it works. Check the bands on the adjustable resistors for corrosion. Test to make sure brushes are good. Check hz at the receptacles to confirm engine speed, about 62hz while generating ac power and I believe 100hz at weld speed.
 
#4 ·
Thank you both for suggestions as this point me towards other items to check in finer detail.

The fine current control was always at 100% when generating power (at least while I owned it). With the unit in power mode, I can hear the engine change pitch as I twist the rheostat; and I can watch the voltage drop on the meter as I drop the fine control.

With the rheostat set at 100% and in power mode, I measured the AC frequency as 54Hz at both plugs. In weld mode, the auxiliary plug that should be reading 100Hz is reading 88.1Hz.

I pulled the side panel off and tested the T1 power block with the following results between the terminals (and the jumper clip removed):

A-B 10VAC @ 54Hz
A-C 76VAC @ 54Hz
A-D 76VAC @ 56Hz
B-C 56.5VAC @ 54Hz
B-D 76VAC @ 54Hz
C-D 9.7VAC @ 54Hz

I checked the brush resistance and voltage to ground with both the ignition on and off with the following results:

Ignition off - All brushes 0VDC
1st brush (closest to control panel) - 0 Ohms
2nd brush - 31 Ohms
3rd brush (closest to engine) - 64 Ohms

Ignition on, engine off
1st brush - 24 Ohms @ 0VDC
2nd brush - Beyond multimeter capability @ 11.65VDC
3rd brush - 13.5 M Ohms @ 3.13VDC

Pulled the brush assembly away from the slip rings and checked the condition of the brushes, all have 1/2" to 5/8" carbon remaining. No major pits, or scratches in the contact face, did not find any cracks or damage elsewhere. I did hit them lightly with some 600 grit sand paper before reinstalling. Slip rings appeared shiny at contact locations, with a very fine carbon dust layer (easily wiped clean).

I'll head back out to the garage, dig into that rheostat and do what I can to clean all the contacts and double check the wiring. I'll post back with any other updates as I test / clean things.

Checking the individual components on the control boards will likely have to wait till the weekend when I have more free time.

Thanks again in advance.
 
#6 ·
I havnt needed to, but I've heard the folks at miller are pretty helpful on fixing older machines (probably not so much on newer high tech stuff)
Might be worth a few minutes on the phone, talk to an engine drive tech there, cant hurt to ask.
BTW, I've been running an 88 Legend AEAD 200le since 98, love that machine.
 
#7 ·
Called Miller industries at (920) 734-9821 and was notified of a few other things to test, but offhand, it sounds like it is the voltage control board or components therein.

I'll have to call them back with the results for my unit, but for others that may be interested to test the voltage control board:

Between terminals A/B and A/C should have 20VAC; terminals E/G should have 160VAC.

Another thing to check is the copper rings, from the middle ring, you should have 3 ohms resistance to one ring and 36 ohms to the other. He didn't give me a tolerance for those values, so your measurements may vary.

He also gave me the name of one of their lead techs to talk to when I call back.
 
#8 ·
Apparently, after reseating the brushes, the power generation side returned to normal operation/output. I've got proper voltage at both plugs, and the terminal block with a frequency between 54-58hz.

The checks at the voltage board were pretty close to those recommended for A-B & A-C. E-G was 120.3VAC max.

My slip ring resistance measurements are definitely different as I find 1-2 at 26.6ohms and 2-3 at 32 ohms. Measured 1-3 for grins and it was 58.4 ohms.

Measured slip rings again while after running for about 10 min with the following:
1-2 30 ohms
2-3 38 ohms
1-3 67.6 ohms

Still can't draw a bead or get a steady arc.

I'll see what they say when I call back tomorrow.
 
#10 ·
I've got proper voltage at both plugs, and the terminal block with a frequency between 54-58hz.
Your engine speed for power mode is a little low. Acceptable running frequency is from 58hz (full load) to 63hz (no load).
 
#9 ·
Edit to the above post concerning readings between the slip rings(#7 in thread); they should be 30 ohms from control panel side to center ring and 36 ohms from center to engine side ring. My readings were within acceptable tolerance values.

I've been directed to check wires 21 & 23 in both power and weld mode for DC voltage values.

I also need to check the AC output terminals in weld mode for AC voltage, as well as wires 8 & 9 towards the windings as they feed the AC plug.

Once I have those values, I'll give a call back to Miller and go from there. Preliminary guesses are faults in the voltage control board.

I'm mainly updating this thread as I go to potentially help others that may experience a similar situation on what to test and what results you should get.
 
#12 ·
The Miller tech mentioned the engine speed was a little low as well, but we would adjust that later once the underlying issue was found.

I probably used the wrong terminology in the OP concerning "loping along". The idle / low speed is very smooth without any noticeable hiccups or regularly recurring changes in speed as would occur with a dirty carb or other fuel delivery issues. When I first obtained the unit, there was a noticeable recurring lag that was traced back to the stock fuel pump. Once I bypassed it with an electronic pump, RPM's hold steady.

I missed the lead tech today as my lunch got pushed till after he'd left for the day, so no real updates yet.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Spent a couple hours carefully scraping the protective coating off the resistors, diodes, and capacitors on the voltage control board.

For the capacitors: C56 is currently reading 108uF instead of 33uF. The tantalum cap C52 has no reading and C53 is just over the double listed value at 5uF. I've read these tantalum caps are a known issue that occurs on these boards.

All of the diodes registered as good using my multimeter.

For the resistors: R50 is registering about 100 ohms low. R56 is registering 3.3k ohm instead of 10k ohm. Both R57&62 are reading in at 70 ohms; about 30 ohms low. Both R58&63 are reading under half of listed value at 42 ohms. All others were within manufacturing tolerances per the band colors.

Going to get replacement resistors and capacitors ordered tomorrow and swap them out once they arrive.

Put the board back into the machine while I'm awaiting components in case the Miller tech needs some additional tests run in the mean time.

Going to pull out the idle control board and test those components next. I'll order the necessary parts with those for the voltage control board once I've put together a list.

Will see what happens once these components are swapped out.
 
#14 ·
Update - The welder is back up and running. I was able to draw a decent bead using 7018 with both the AC and DC terminals on some scrap steel. However, I'm not completely done with chasing the problem or fully determining the cause. I'm also still trying to track down a technical service manual for future troubleshooting purposes.

I've yet to be able to get ahold of the tech at Miller due to scheduling conflicts (and time zones) to discuss my readings from his last circuit suggestion. So there might be something else happening in the background.

After testing the circuit boards this past weekend, I pulled the brushes out completely and cleaned all of the contact surfaces. After measuring the lengths (again), I determined that there was an 1/8" difference between the center and end brushes, thus uneven wear which I know happens in some motors. When I put them back in, I swapped the shorter brush away from the center slip ring to the end ring closest to the control panel.

Upon restarting the unit today, I adjusted the engine speed using the voltage output frequency for an unloaded frequency of 63Hz as mentioned in an earlier post while in power mode. I then tested the voltage & frequency in the accessory plug while in weld mode (117Vac & 96Hz). Then I tested the AC & DC weld outputs and found the output levels considerably higher than mentioned in the OP (today was AC weld at 70Vac, DC at 32Vdc).

Tested with some 7018 rod and was able to maintain a good good arc / pull a bead which I couldn't do when I first posted. The idle board also started working properly once again. I'm still going to replace the faulty parts on each of the boards that were determined during my component testing over the weekend once those components arrive.

I've also ordered replacement brushes from millerserviceparts.com. They're on back order until mid April, but I'll install them upon arrival and keep the old ones as spares.
 
#15 ·
Thats great! Great thing about these older machines is their simplicity (relatively). Mostly just relays, brushes and the like, not like newer machines, tho more powerful with more features, with those ya blow circuit board one, and spend 1200 bucks for that and the problem was in circuit board two, so you blow circuit board one AGAIN, and chase the problem till the problem costs more than a new machine.
To the best of my knowledge these only have the 2 circuit boards, one controls the idle up and down, and shouldnt affect performance other than that, the other is the voltage control that regulates yer 120/240 output, and is bypassed at weld output, and shouldnt affect welding.
I think you're on the right path here.
Patience pays working on these machines.