new here and just wanted to ask something (if this isnt the right forum let me know) which would be better for filling in this hole? flux or stick idk how thick the metal is im mainly just curious what to do
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YokingWig573474
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10,573 Posts
A good fast freeze wire is best for that. Easier to build it up without blowing through.
Flux core(self shielded) comes in a couple of varieties. Lincoln makes NR211-MP, which is a T-11 wire. Or, you can use a GS wire, such as Weldmark, or Blue Demon.
GS wires are more tolerant to less-than-perfect base metals.
By the looks of it, your part is thin..........not much left to actually repair, at least from what I can see in the pic. I'm thinking it's a candidate for replacement.
Flux core(self shielded) comes in a couple of varieties. Lincoln makes NR211-MP, which is a T-11 wire. Or, you can use a GS wire, such as Weldmark, or Blue Demon.
GS wires are more tolerant to less-than-perfect base metals.
By the looks of it, your part is thin..........not much left to actually repair, at least from what I can see in the pic. I'm thinking it's a candidate for replacement.
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10,573 Posts
This being a spring perch?? They're usually rivetted onto the frame, sometimes welded. Fairly easy to remove, and replace.
BUT..................................
If you do weld it out, it's possible to do a fair job if there's enough thickness left.
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A fairly rusty mess. It sat in manure/mud for about a decade, or more. The top rails were cut off, and a new rail welded on.
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The original stuff WAS 11ga material. Cleaning it up probably reduced it to something on the order of 14ga. And.....ya gots some MONDO gaps to fill.
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If you can get a puddle started...........aim the gun at the puddle, not the steel. A fast freeze wire will solidify fast enough to allow you to actually build on the metal that's cooled within the puddle. Some very tiny bit of a weave is needed to make the toes wet in...................but I'm mostly letting the puddle fill the gap, allowing it to make contact with the adjoining pieces. You really need to be the puddle (polish up your peepers so you can see it good). Because this weld was a regular horizontal weld, I was able to hold the gun at an absolute 90* angle to the joint. You'll see a different angle below, when dealing with a fillet.
Note how nicely the GS wire works with crappy steel. It's good stuff for this application.
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This is just an illustration of the gun angle for this type of fillet joint. I never hold the gun at a 45* angle to the joint. I come in fairly flat, and aim directly at the root, and let it fill. The puddle does the work. I run a similar stick weld the same way. Go in lowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
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Just make sure you don't short the gun to the steel.
This is .030 Weldmark GS wire. Great stuff for thin material. Very forgiving.
Parameters were probably set for 11ga material, being as the new piece was full thickness. You just watch for excessive heat going into the badly corroded material.
BUT..................................
If you do weld it out, it's possible to do a fair job if there's enough thickness left.
A fairly rusty mess. It sat in manure/mud for about a decade, or more. The top rails were cut off, and a new rail welded on.
The original stuff WAS 11ga material. Cleaning it up probably reduced it to something on the order of 14ga. And.....ya gots some MONDO gaps to fill.
If you can get a puddle started...........aim the gun at the puddle, not the steel. A fast freeze wire will solidify fast enough to allow you to actually build on the metal that's cooled within the puddle. Some very tiny bit of a weave is needed to make the toes wet in...................but I'm mostly letting the puddle fill the gap, allowing it to make contact with the adjoining pieces. You really need to be the puddle (polish up your peepers so you can see it good). Because this weld was a regular horizontal weld, I was able to hold the gun at an absolute 90* angle to the joint. You'll see a different angle below, when dealing with a fillet.
Note how nicely the GS wire works with crappy steel. It's good stuff for this application.
This is just an illustration of the gun angle for this type of fillet joint. I never hold the gun at a 45* angle to the joint. I come in fairly flat, and aim directly at the root, and let it fill. The puddle does the work. I run a similar stick weld the same way. Go in lowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
This is .030 Weldmark GS wire. Great stuff for thin material. Very forgiving.
Parameters were probably set for 11ga material, being as the new piece was full thickness. You just watch for excessive heat going into the badly corroded material.
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10,573 Posts
If that's an aftermarket lift kit, it's probably in bad shape throughout. You're just seeing the worst of it as you look at it.
I'm thinking that the small hole is just the tip of the iceberg.
Cut a small patch, and weld it up(shrug). Replace it when you have the money.
If that's OEM, shame on them. The dog ear holding the strut will probably go bad in time. Judging by the shape of the axle, and other stuff under there...............it doesn't look like an ancient vehicle.
I'm thinking that the small hole is just the tip of the iceberg.
Cut a small patch, and weld it up(shrug). Replace it when you have the money.
If that's OEM, shame on them. The dog ear holding the strut will probably go bad in time. Judging by the shape of the axle, and other stuff under there...............it doesn't look like an ancient vehicle.
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