If it's steam through cast iron, you are probably chasing rust on top of cast iron is a real headache to weld. Getting a pressure tight seal on top of everything else. Good luck... buy it and try it if nothing else works.

Looks like snake oil... ask them for the MSDS. It has to list what this "Electromagnetic powder" actually is.

 

309 tig rod works great on cast iron...the Ez weld sounds like 312 tig rod..

 

Are you drilling the ends of the crack?

 

Welding cast iron has been covered extensively on the forum. A simple search will yield results.

 

I have some EZ Weld. Only Dale Davison knows what's in it. But it works! No "pinging" or cracking. Here's a link to my video using it.

[video=youtube;JlirbWqU5qU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlirbWqU5qU[/video]

 

You should megnaflex that cast iron peice to check your work and rod to really tell the story

 

Hi all, tigmaniac,

thanks for the video. My experience with cast iron in general is that if the piece is free to expand and contract without interference as in the case of the bottle opener, then cracking will not occur. The real test would have been if you had been able to weld a crack in the center of a cast iron part such as in a machine base with a crack in the gusset somewhere. I did not drill out the crack ends as it was a crack about 1/4" long. The area I grooved was about an inch long mainly because the grinding disc created a larger area.

I ordered the EZ Weld wire and will be taking it to try out. I'll report how it does.

Thanks,

Tony

 

Is it patented? If so, then you might be able to find out by looking it up by patent number.

 

Smoke n mirrors. The wire does not currently carry an AWS Classification. MSDS --- > www.davbroinc.com/files/Davbro Wire msds.pdf

 

That MSDS is for a wire manufactured by Eureka Welding Alloys. The guy selling it may be offering smoke n mirrors in repurposing one of Eureka's wires, but Eureka is an old line specialty filler manufacturer. Much of their line doesn't have AWS numbers as it is for welding specific tool steels. They have rods for most tool steels, even HSS.

As for the original post, it is possible the repair will need to be mechanical rather than welding. Look up lock-n-stich or irontite. They are tapered cast iron plugs, similar to pipe plugs. They are drilled so they overlap like shingles and work well for sealing cracks that can't be properly welded.

 

Hi and thanks for the feedback. I went out last Monday for the second time and used the EZ Weld Tig rod this time. To my dismay, the crack returned. I am going once more tomorrow and drill out the crack and attempt to seal it shut with the EZ Weld rod. The rod flows very smoothly. Tig gave me much more control than using the ni-rod smaw. I think that grinding out the crack was not enough as I did not go all the way through. Drilling it out "should" do the trick as I will be able to take the area out altogether. The crack is very small and a 1/4" drill bit should take all of it out.

I will look into the lock-n-stitch method and will suggest it to the client if my effort fails again.

I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Tony

 

Hi all,

I went out last Monday and drilled out the crack / hole with a 3/16" bit, filled it in and it held under pressure. That's what I should have done from the beginning. I was timid to do so as I was afraid that the it might not work and I would make the damage worse. Nothing ventured, nothing gained?

Thanks,

Tony