[California]

I used the flux core wire for exactly one session ... What a spatter-fest.

I'm gradually zeroing in on getting low-splatter results after several years of occasional use.

This weld was with a 94056 (Blue 90A AC flux welder, 5 years ago model). I looked to see what sort of FC wire gave me this low-splatter result and discovered I had put the original HF wire back in it - K-kng brand or something like that. Apparently low splatter is as much finding the right settings as it is the brand of wire. This is the lowest-splatter weld I've ever made with it.

Please excuse the amateurish welding technique - I weld infrequently and never practice before a project. In this case I welded 'ears' on a sleeve so I could pin the sleeve to the back of the tractor. Ugly I know, but my welds stay welded. I've never had one break. This is the sort of project I bought the 90A welder to do and splatter is harmless. One light pass with the grinder and one with the wire brush, and almost no splatter remains.

I think what reduced the splatter this time was working with very short stick-out and low wire speed. (0.30 FC wire on Hi amp setting).

 

[California]

Question: Is a 'motor start capacitor' intended for a well pump etc, suitable for this application? (I see a box of them cheap on Craigslist).

 

[California]

IMG tags don't seem to be working, the above just shows up as a link instead of showing the image itself... Am I not allowed to post images to this thread?)

Apparently linking to images hosted elsewhere isn't allowed on WW. I've had this experience too.

In fact I've tried to link to a photo I posted here previously - nope. The image contained in a prior WW post can't be displayed in a new WW post by linking to the url of the prior image even when it is your own image. This is different from other VB-based sites that I am familiar with that usually allow displaying a photo from anywhere.

 

[California]

was that the pre-1950 standard?

 

[California]

My 1910-ish farmhouse was apparently wired in the 1930's after the mains finally reached it. The wiring seems to conform to a 1950's edition of a Richter book that described how to do it. I'm sure there's never been a building inspector on the property. No green ground wire except on circuits added later.

There is a ground rod at the main panel and another 75 ft away at a 100 amp sub panel in the barn that was installed much later by amateurs. This second ground seems to be important for working out there safely, say welding on wet ground, but I've wondered if it is the reason why some plumbing rusts out (galvanic action) sooner than it should. Any comments on this corrosion?

 

[California]

Have you searched the other threads on here? I thought I saw mention of this in one of them.

 

[California]

...
HF 90A Flux Core
Lincoln AC225s

I'm curious if the HF180 can replace both of these. I suspect it can, except maybe for a project at the upper limit of the AC225's capability. Anybody know?

And - I haven't seen the 180 go on sale much. What is the best price for it?

 

[California]

Just from what I've read on here - My own choice would be put up the additional $100 for the #180. I think the difference in capability is greater than those numbers imply.

But spending that or a little more on a real welder, used, from Craigslist, seems like a better choice. For one thing it will be supported by the manufacturer, while the HF unit is an orphan the day its warranty expires.

 

[California]

just $2.00 out the door but it's a 62 Ohm 25 watt (not a 50 Ohm 25 watt).

The resistor is to bleed off the charge in the capacitor so you don't get zapped later. Using 62 ohm in place of 50 ohm just means that the higher resistance will bleed off a little slower. I think the math would be the bleed down will take 1/8 longer. This isn't a significant difference.

 

[California]

1) HF should have the tips. If not, anything you need is on Ebay. Maybe search on #68886, the Mig-180, because the external parts are the same.

2) Cap mfd rating isn't critical. The rated voltage it will tolerate, is critical. And finding space to mount it may limit maximum size.
But the cap mod isn't essential. It brings the welder slightly closer to a pro-quality welder - but 'slightly'. I think the only real advantage is slightly hotter output at maximum setting. At the cost of corresponding higher stress on the circuits.

3) If you were getting decent welds with the 90 amp AC welder using flux core then flux with this DC welder should be sufficient for the project you describe. Try that first before adding more cost!

 

[California]

If you're using flux core wire, pick up a flux core nozzle from HD too.

That's good to know. I grabbed the two-pack of flux 'nozzles' (small diameter, protective only, no gap for gas) at HF without noticing the price. Discovered this is a new Vulcan product, expensive and no coupons accepted.

 

[California]

MIG-170 (#61888, 68885) is all that's left, HF no longer offers MIG-180 (#68886). Searching HF's website on 'MIG 180' brings up the Vulcan migs and then the MIG 170.

There might be a few of them left in stores somewhere. Also likely on Ebay but at an unreasonable price.

 

[California]

I'm getting worried about HF. They now have upscale welders, some power tools, and multimeters/car scanners that are just a little below name brand.

I think HF is dead serious about elbowing Craftsman out of the almost-pro category. Also maybe defeat or at least equal the better box-store brands too - Ryobi etc.

 

[California]

I tried out the 170 Amp machine today and figured I post it in the projects section.

Linky

I didn't notice that 'Linky' at first, so I'll repeat its target here:

WeldingWeb Disciplines / Welding Projects & Pictures / Mobile Base for My Woodturning Lathe

And I will follow your project with interest!

 

[California]

I have HF170 works great out box with NO capacitors

WHAT does the capacitors do for the welder

In theory - voltage cycles to zero 120 times per second without the capacitor. The capacitor is a buffer that maintains voltage at near average voltage continually while welding.

Aside from theory - my mig-180 seems to weld smoother with the capacitor switched in.

And there is a clear increase of power output at each setting. I need to dial it down maybe 20% if I switch in the capacitor.

This also increases the maximum output beyond its native specs. Presumably with corresponding added stress on the internals and reducing the welding time before overheating.


Summary: if you can do nice work without the mod then there's no reason to add it.