the only don't i can think of is don't give him any kind of guarantee whatsover. welding pot metal is always a crapshoot at best.

 

I have done this in the past. One was an engine block for a chevy, don't remember which one and also a GM 400 tramsmission housing. Also welded a 1 1/2" plug in the back of a Sportster case that someone put a gear thru. I have also welded up a few broken gear box cases. Stick works pretty well on heavy aluminum but there are a few tricks to it. Pre heat it first or you get a lot of splatter and poor fusion until the part gets hot. After the heat is up it runs pretty smooth but a lot of flux. Just stop and clean it out of your way. I don't remember now but I think I used DC-. It has been a long time since I did this. You will need more rod than you think because they burn down quickly.

 

Here are a couple of thread I did.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=15573

http://weldingweb.com/search.php?searchid=348984

Use Reverse polarity.

Northern Tool sell a book that demonstrates stick welding aluminum.

I repaired a cast mail box a couple of months ago. I was just playing. I had previously fallen over and broken off its pedestal. It has since fallen and not broken.

Last paying repair, I migged with a spool gun.

 

If this is where it bolts to the engine,there is no problem of any more breaking or coming loose. I and many other newBs have broke a flange bolt off from trying to torque the housing in while it wasn't aligned with the 2 pins on the engine.5 will hold quite well. What ever you do,tell him to torque the repaired piece last.He will not have a problem with durability or strength of the houseing. This goes the same with the 4 bolt flanges that bolts to the tranny if we are talking about a manual tranny. JB weld will hold for that matter. Just some input about bell housings that might help you out.

 

I have a lot of experience with this process.

YES you can weld aluminum castings with stick welding electrodes.
The major company that makes these is HARRIS - WELCO ALLOYS.

The electrodes are DC and cost about $60 per pound. Sort of a pink color.
Sometimes refered to as missleweld.
You cannot leave them out at all !!! If you leave them out overnight unsealed the next morning all of the flux coating will have come off.

When welding with them the weldment should be preheated to about 350-400 degrees, Then weld after the piece is "Vee'd" out and tacked in place.

When running the rod you will have to feed the rod downward into the weldment at a very rapid rate. Chip and wire brush between passes.
It is a quality product.

Of coarse the best way is to TIG the weldment.