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Best auto darkening welding helmet

28K views 74 replies 40 participants last post by  Munkul  
#1 ·
I was welding last night for about 30 minutes and I kept getting flashed as the lens switched on and off. I had a 150 watt work light about 12" away from my work piece to see what I was doing. I don't know what was causing the problem but it could have been from the intermittent popping in the MIG wire as I hit rusty or oily metal and lost the arc for a millisecond. I was using a Miller auto darkening welding helmet that's about 3 years old. I have Miller, Hobart auto dark helmets and 6 other fixed shade helmets. I normally use a fixed shade but in certain conditions I have to use an auto darkening helmet. My eyes feel like I have sand in them and I'm don with this helmet. I don't want to spend more than $250. Is there anything reliable that you would recommend?
 
#4 ·
The last several years I’ve been using the ArcOne auto lenses. To date not one problem.
 

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#5 ·
Two helmets reputed to be the best are the Optrel e684 and the Lincoln 3550. Both use the 4c technology.

I own an Optrel and am stunned at how clear it is. The color rendition is excellent. I have never welded with a hood that was as clear as the Optrel.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I've never seen those ArcOne lens inserts. It's a great idea because my favorite helmet has the flip up lens that I can use for grinding and I use a gold fixed shade in it.

I'll check out the Optrel 684 cost $433 and $888 on Amazon!!! Too much for my limited budget.
https://www.amazon.com/E684-Silver-...rel/dp/B01LXHJKXY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480346492&sr=8-3&keywords=Optrel+e684
I think you mean the Lincoln Viking 3350. The Lincoln is in my price range $220 for the basic black version. I think I'm going to get that one. It has a lot of good reviews and 4.5 star rating. The 4 sensor design will probably have less false triggering than my Miller helmet with only 2 sensors. I wish I could test them before spending so much money on a helmet I may not like the fit, comfort, or visibility.

Systane Ultra eye drops are the best relief for dry arc flashed grinding dust encrusted eyes. You can also make an eye wash out of bottled water by drilling or poking a hole in the cap.
 
#11 ·
Like CEP stated above Arc One's are what I use if I'm using a auto lense. I just give one away to an apprentice to try as I wanted to go a shade darker on the next one. I checked the invoice, I bought that one in '08 and it's still working well.
 
#12 ·
I can comment on the Optrel e684, and it's freakin awesome. Might not be the largest viewing area compared to others, but when you experience the clarity and color, you forget all about viewing windows schmindows. The HTP Striker CSV is also very very clear, with amber optics. HTP great value at only $150 or so. Both I still use, both have a 1/1/1/1 rating. Go figure :)
 
#14 ·
CEP, Which shade do you use? And how many amps is it safe to use it at? I usually weld at 250-300 amp max MIG and 200 amp max stick welding. I usually set my lens to shade 11 but sometimes it's too dark for thin sheet metal with MIG. Do they make an adjustable shade ArcOne lens? I don't' want to buy 2 of them.
 
#15 ·
I have a #9, #10, and #11. 95% of the time I use the #9 lens. Up to about 140-amps. More amps, and I use the #10. I don’t think I’ve used the #11 yet!
Here is the ArcOne site.
http://www.arc1weldsafe.com/
 
#16 ·
The one I give away was a #10. It was fine when we were outdoors and I had dark safety glasses on underneath my hood. Too light for me inside with clear glasses on. So the next one is a #11. I'm happy with it so far. Range of welding it's seen is 1/16" flux core to 3/32 7018.
I don't believe they make a variable shade cartridge lense. I bet the space constraints limit them. I had to file the slot on my hood ever so lightly to get the Arc One to fit.
 
#17 ·
Hillbillyfab, what amperage were you using the #10 lens is too light? I have blue eyes. I've been told that blue eyes don't block as much UV rays so you need a higher shade lens to protect them. This could be why I'm getting flash burn and my friends ar not at the same amps. Most of my MIG welding is done on 1/8"-1/4" steel. On heavy plate or construction next most popular size is 3/8"-3/4" stick welding 125-200 amp 3/36"-5/32" 6010 and 7018.
 
#21 ·






I just got the Lincoln Viking helmet today. It feels like Christmas! The quality is top notch. The weight of the helmet is not bad at all it's just a thicker than normal plastic so it won't break so easily. I actually like that because it's not thin and flimsy. You get 5 extra clear lens covers for the front panel and 2 extra for the inside. It comes with a bandana and a carrying bag to keep it clean. It has 2 modes 5-8 and 9-13. Very clear lens and large viewing area. Very good value so far. I'll see how my eyes feel after a day of welding.
 
#25 ·
You're welcome. I don't see why it wouldn't work on the entire helmet. I use a paper towel but a cotton rag would probably work better. Some times I have to clean it twice to get it crystal clear. It makes a huge difference in visibility.
 
#27 ·
I think it's a safety, cost, and weight issue. If a grinding wheel chips or sends a high speed bur at your lenses it won't shatter. Glass is defiantly more durable and clearer than plastic. Laminated safety glass would be perfect.
 
#29 ·
I use a arcone s240 shade 10 I have had it for a year now and no problems stick or tig and I just got off of a little shutdown in a steel mill where I was working around some boilermakers and they spray pledge on there lens and and safety glasses and then wipe it off and it keeps your lens more clear and keeps dust and spatter from sticking so bad it works pretty good.


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#31 ·
I just tried it for the first. I was using flux core .035" and I love this helmet! The lens is ultra clear and crisp. It's like going from black and white to a color TV. I can even see color when I'm welding. Blue for the arc white and red for the molten puddle and grey for the steel. My other lens is just different shades of green. And my eyes feel great.