Like this: https://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_2118_165&products_id=127

I got one for 50 bucks. I don't use it. Use a belt sander in the shop. Nice if you are in the field. I keep it in my travel kit. It might be worth 50 bucks, I don't know about $280. It hasn't save or earned me 50 bucks. I sharpen a box of tungsten before I leave and never run out of sharpened tungstens on the size jobs I do.

 

I don't think its worth the expense but its a real nice tool, HTP has some cheaper models, I built an attachment for my dremel which saved me a lot and it takes under a minute to get it all set up.

 

I have one. I LOVE it. Can't live without it.

 

Which one do you have? I was looking at the HTP ones. Corded, not battery.

 

At work we use ULTIMA tungsten shatpeners, and honeztly, if we were allowed, id sharpen then on a bench grinder.

Sent from my LG-P716 using Tapatalk

 

I have one, and i really like it. For me it was worth the expense. I purchased the Turbo Sharp™ X Tungsten Electrode Grinder, 110V US Model from my LWS for $560 or so. They ordered it from CK, and gave me a discounted price.

Gar

 

I have one, and i really like it. For me it was worth the expense. I purchased the Turbo Sharp™ X Tungsten Electrode Grinder, 110V US Model from my LWS for $560 or so. They ordered it from CK, and gave me a discounted price.

Gar

What was the final cost on that beauty?

 

I bought the adjustable one from htp with two ten packs of tungsten total price of $323 shipped in. Won't go back flap disc.

 

What kind of belt sander do you have? The nice thing about them is they are multipurpose. Can't drag me away from my Klamazoo high speed 2x48" belt sanders. One is 30 years old, the other 20 years old. USA made but kind of pricy at $450.

 

It's nothing fancy. I got it at Lowes. It has a 4 inch wide belts sander and a round sander on the side.
It does come in handy from time to time for other things.

 

I also have a Tungsten Sharpener, I like it because the tip contour is repeatable and consistent, one more variable eliminated.

I made a sharpener using a saw blade sharpner, HF 50 beans, has a 4 in diomand wheel. Worked fair, the problem I ran into, was using a drill to rotate the electrode. Would produce swirls in the tungsten and arc wander was always a concern.

Plunked down the big bucks for the tool. It was worth it to me, not only for the above reasons mentioned but the size of the tool is also and advantage.

Happy to sell you the sharpener pictured for the 50 if so inclined.

 

I also have a Tungsten Sharpener, I like it because the tip contour is repeatable and consistent, one more variable eliminated.

I made a sharpener using a saw blade sharpner, HF 50 beans, has a 4 in diomand wheel. Worked fair, the problem I ran into, was using a drill to rotate the electrode. Would produce swirls in the tungsten and arc wander was always a concern.

View attachment 870571

Plunked down the big bucks for the tool. It was worth it to me, not only for the above reasons mentioned but the size of the tool is also and advantage.

Happy to sell you the sharpener pictured for the 50 if so inclined.

Thanks for the offer, but I'll pass. There is times where my arc wanders too.

 

BucketObolts

The only reason to own a hi-end tungsten sharpener is:
because you are superior with TIG - and you are doing
high-cert. / critical-work.

Keep it simple - keep it cheap - until you can teach.


Opus

 

That is not the kind of welding I do, that's for sure. I just do art work.
The sander has worked so far. I have been doing it by hand. Maybe I'll give the drill a try too.
Thanks!

 

Use a 4 1/2" grinder clamped in your vise.
1/4" thick aluminum oxide wheel.
Put your tungstens in a cordless drill.
Perfect precision sharpened points on 3/32" and 1/8" tungstens.
Don't work on 1/16 and smaller.
I don't use 1/16 and smaller tho.


Just a cheap and functional way to get er done.

 

I use chem-sharpening. Its tough to beat for cost and portability. Not to mention it creates a perfectly symmetrical tip and stops the possibility of the leaning candy cane arc when welding steel.

 

I went for years just sharpening on any old grind stone. Eye balling it. It works. And for most stuff seems to be acceptable.
I picked up a Sharpe and it just made getting consistent tips that much easier. The angle was always the same, and the tip centered etc. etc.. That bad news it takes one more excuse away.
The cheaper handheld grinders ($250 range) tend not to have scales/markings on them for exact angles. You have to step it up in price (I think) to get that.
If you go all the way to a Piranha grinder, you can even buy finer abrasive wheels for a smoother finish. For the others, you have to do some research to see what is available. Ebay is your friend for reasonable prices.

 

I own one but wouldn't buy it again. A belt sander is faster and handier.

The biggest problem I have is goobered up tungsten tips won't fit through the hole. So with a little glob, you have to snap the tungsten off.

Only happens to me on steel if I dip and keep going (as I get away with on steel at times).

 

The tungsten grinders from Anchor or Neutrix (see Arc-zone) don't have the issue (well that issue). The tungsten is put into a mandrel - goober and all. I have used the Neutrix and it is more precise than my Sharpe.... I'm pretty sure its not $1000 more precise. Its also a lot heavier (not really portable). FYI, the Neutrix has that soft start that reminds me of Metabo polishers/grinders. Not sure who makes it but the Anchor one is exactly the same (different label) and exactly the same price.

I know its a bit off topic. But I swear, on a previous goobered tungsten, the metal literally lept onto the electrode... I'm 90% sure I did not dip it. I got to thinking it was because I didn't cut the tip off. Only noticed it once. Maybe I screwed up (well one way or another I did).

The issue with smaller grinders is they are not really designed to cut off tungsten.